A Gothic Aristocrat Primer, Part Two

Welcome to the second installment of A Gothic Aristocrat Primer! I encourage you to read the first article, as there are some pointers there that also apply to the two styles I will brush over today: Madam and Ouji.

Madam Style

My impression of Gothic Madam is that of a grown-up Gothic Lolita; feminine and frilly with a hint of vintage, but minus the parts that make Lolita–the short skirt and petticoat, the cute collar and sleeves, and the childlikeness in general. It’s hard to find photos of people who call their style Madam, so I still have more studying to do, but it is definitely a style that exists in Tokyo street life.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• A dark or gothic aesthetic is essential. It is sometimes based on black, black-and-white (but classical) or Japanese fabrics and motifs (similar to those found in Classic Lolita and Waloli) can be implemented for a personalized look.
• Keep the general fashion sense and modesty of Gothic Lolita, but go for a mature femininity rather than a cute, girly one. It’s not necessarily a sophisticated and adultish style; rather, dress more your own age.
• Knee-length or shin-length skirts are common, but only skirts that do not require a petticoat (they are obviously Lolita if they do). They are usually, but not always, asymmetrical. Mermaid skirts (skirts that are form-fitted across the thighs but flare out at the bottom) are also in style.

Ouji style

Ouji (sometimes called Goth-Ouji, Ouji-kei, or Oujisama esp. by Westerners) is not a foreign term to our ears. Ouji means “Prince”, and is usually Prince-like, but mostly, it just means that this is a man’s style. We sometimes call this Dandy, but modern Dandy fashion is an entirely different world made up of adult and middle-aged men with a specific fashion aesthetic. I suppose if you are a gentleman who identifies well with Dandyism, you could add some Gothic influence to it to become a bonafide Gothic Dandy!

Sometimes this man-style is referred to as “Unisex” because women like to wear Ouji as well. Some women Ouji like to adopt a bishounen look. It makes sense for a woman to want to look like a man who looks like a woman, right? (Sarcasm not intended…)

Ouji is NOT, however, the ONLY men’s style in Gothic and Lolita. I’m just telling you about it because it is often associated with Aristocrat in the Western Goth-loli community. It is actually not always as elegant as our interpretation of Aristocrat would have us believe–Punk-styled Ouji is quite common.

Please Note: There is another style called Ouji-loli, and this should not be confused with Ouji-style. Westerners know Ouji-loli as “Kodona”, and it is cute and boyish–childlike, not Aristocratic. Ouji-loli is for girls. Please do not mix these up.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• The difference between Elegant style and Ouji style is a little blurry to me, but my guesses are: 1. Ouji is less pretty/androgynous/vampiric and more manly/princely, and allows punk influence, 2. Elegant is a ladies’ style (as I speculated in the first article).
• Ouji has a lot of leeway, and depending on the style you want to achieve, you can choose from elegant shirts with ruffles to gauze shirts with ripped hems and exaggerated collars. You usually want a button-up shirt, but that may not necessarily always be the case. (For example, Atelier Boz is currently selling some strange turtlenecks.) A normal dress shirt is ok, but it doesn’t really have the same feel as a gothic- or punk-influenced one…unless you alter it!
• Knickerbockers are a popular choice, and are a staple of Ouji fashion much the way puffy, knee-length skirts are of Lolita. They end well below the knee, and the bottoms are usually fitted to the legs, although some men like to wear loose-fitting ones instead. They are meant to be worn with long sock or stockings underneath.
• Long coats (such as the frock coat) and vests are common but not necessary.
• Cravats are also common but not necessary.
• An Ouji can wear a full-size hat or a mini-hat, but mini-hats are usually only seen in punkish styles. And speaking of accessories, canes or walking sticks with Gothic handles (ex., a skull on top) make a powerful accent to your ensemble.

Conclusion

If you would like to become an Aristocrat, Elegant Goth, Madam, or Ouji, I hope my tips help you find a starting ground, but my final advice to you is this: let no one tell you what you should and shouldn’t wear, because there will always be someone to challenge the rules and create exceptions. Find a Gothic & Lolita Bible or a Gothic and Lolita website–better if you find several–and look at the photos. Pick out the things you like and buy or imitate them. Do not be lazy, bashful, or uncertain! Put all of your effort into achieving your desired style! In time you will get the hang of it, understand what is and is not appropriate, and you will probably discover your own unique fashion quirks to boot.

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Kuroloki Roku will be a graduate of Columbia College Chicago in May 2008. She and her Prince reside in a hidden fortress in Chicagoland, and together they enjoy sipping tea, dressing up for outings, and playing DDR. Readers can find Roku’s Goth-loli blog at kuroloki.wordpress.com. Roku would like to have a career as an illustrator and graphic novelist.