So you’ve decided you’d like to dress in Lolita style, but your body type does not lend to the standard construction or sizing of Japanese brands. Or perhaps the clothing that you’ve always dreamed of will be forever out of stock. Fear not, aspiring Lolita, for there is another way to possess the fashion you desire!
What you seek is a commission. Your first step is to select the particular item you would like to have personally crafted for you. In order to better explain the process, let’s imagine that you’ve fallen in love with this black velvet Shirley Temple one piece. But alas, even if you obtained the original, it’s been designed for pre-teen girls! Only an eight-year-old could ever fit into such a thing! You must have it re-created in your size.
pictures
Begin by gathering up as many photos of this item as you can. Luckily for us, we have both a front and back photo. But what if we could find no back photo? The rest of the garment would be a mystery. Therefore it is up to you, the consumer, to fill in any gaps in information. Shall we leave it plain? How about a large bow? Maybe even a few ruffles? The choice is yours. (Of course you can make these suggestions even if you have the photo, it is your commission.)
finding a seamstress
Step two involves finding a reputable seamstress, preferably someone who has extensive experience with Lolita fashion. Don’t worry if it takes a little time to decide on who you feel will be perfect for your project. Ask around; other Lolitas are usually eager to share their commission experiences, both good and bad.
Post your Shirley Temple photos. Once you contact (or are contacted by) a potential sewing expert, inquire as to the cost of labor, materials and the like. Request credentials, references, and photos of previous commissions. Ask what her current queue looks like, and when you can expect your piece to be finished.
Questions to ask
Inquire as to any return or refund policies.Your seamstress is most likely not making a living sewing Lolita clothing, so she may have you enter into a contract that states you will pay for the dress regardless of the final result. Ask if, after your dress is complete, might you be able to ship it back to have a fitting issue resolved? Would you have to pay extra for this service, or is it included in the overall cost? These are matters that must be settled before the commission begins, to avoid misunderstandings later.
material
When it comes to materials, you can select them yourself and ship them (if you live in the same area as your commissioner, you may be able to go shopping together). Or, you can describe a price range (the most expensive, luxurious velvet? Something durable that will not show wear over time?), and trust the seamstress to buy the fabric and lace for you. In order to know how much material will be used, you will have to be measured.
measurements
A word about measurements: accurate measurements make accurate commissions. I suggest that you visit your nearest dry cleaners, and have yourself professionally measured. This clears up any misconceptions as to where to place the measuring tape, and also reduces the desire to cheat. Do not tell yourself “I should order it a bit small, because I’m planning on losing ten pounds.” SEND IN CURRENT, BRUTALLY EXACT MEASUREMENTS, not the measurements of the future! I cannot stress this enough!
At this point you have chosen your design, you’ve been measured, and you’ve agreed upon a payment method. Your photo and measurements are now in the hands of the seamstress. Can you just sit back and wait for your beautiful Shirley Temple recreation to arrive in the mail? No! You should remain in contact with her throughout the whole process. If you did not provide your own material, ask for photos of the types of trim that will be used (in this case, three different widths of white eyelet lace). The local fabric store might not have something that is identical to the original, so make sure you like what your seamstress has selected.
work in progress
Ask to see photos of the work in progress. If you are happy with your dress during the sewing stage, it’s likely that you will be happy with the end result. It may be possible to change a few details while the garment is under construction, but those same details may be near-impossible to change when the whole thing is said and done. If your seamstress is not as communicative as you would like, realize that her workload may be particularly heavy and try to be understanding.
On the happy day when you finally receive your dress, inspect it for obvious flaws. Try it on and make sure that it fits perfectly. If there is a problem, you should already be aware of the post-completion policies of your seamstress. If you are unsatisfied with the finished product, do your absolute best to work it out with her directly. If you are overjoyed with your purchase, don’t forget to send her a gushing email and a photo of yourself modeling her excellent work!
About Curiosity: Curiosity Valentine is a contributing Lolita fashion writer with extensive knowledge of Lolita fashion. She’s spent time in Japan studying the subject matter and learning the language. She’s also the lead singer in the Gothic Lolita Industrial Jazz band, Curiosity. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below!
Pink Dress photo © Copyright In the Starlight.
i have always wantes one of these. unfortunately, i’m 5′9″ and dont seem to fit into any of these. ugh!
Very nice article. I’m the girl in the pink dress, actually, and wanted to see how you used the photo. Just a little correction, I actually only commissioned the dress, the other two items were things that ITS sells regularly
Once again, great job writing an article to help get people started!
Yeah, it was really helpful! But no one seems to do any commissioned work for Lolita dresses in Singapore. T__T
I love the fashion!! lol! Well, I am selling a brand new gothic lolita dress and I’m wondering whether anyone is interested. Please emeail me at emeraldflames_91@hotmail.com if you are! Thanks! ^__^
Dear Curi, you are an amazing Lolita, but there is one thing here that I strongly disagree with you on. Getting a commission is all fine and dandy, but commissioning someone to make a replica of someone else’s design is unethical from a creative standpoint. Many Lolitas buy replicas and it’s not like anyone can stop them; but this article basically begins by encouraging people to steal other people’s designs. So what if the original won’t fit? That doesn’t make it ok.