I arrived at the The Way of the Lolita 30 minutes beforehand and met the moderator, Kurololi Roku. She’s been an Aristocrat for four years and she loves the long dresses and elegant lines that style showcases. She first became interested in the lolita fashion four years ago after finding this unique Japanese style online. Her passion for speaking about lolitas is what spurred her to co-moderate the panel this year.

Kurololi Roku, Roku for short, likes the overall lolita fashion since it has elements of American Goth but, also, because it’s an elegant and beautiful style; something which American Goth can lack at times Her favorite sub-genres within lolita are the mature and sophisticated Aristocrat, and the male style, Ojisama.

Roku started the panel by saying, “It’s called Gothic and Lolita, not Gothic Lolita.” Then she went into the three primary styles of Gothic and Lolita, aka the Gothic and Lolita color wheel. These would be: Lolita, Gothic, and Punk and all the sub-genres within it. Just like an actual color wheel, one could mix gothic with lolita and get Gothic Lolita, mix Gothic and punk to get Punk Gothic and so on and so on (would Sweet Punk work?)

She also debunked the theory that EGL and EGA are actually loli styles; they’re not. Mana, a popular Visual Kei singer developed a loli brand and called it “Elegant Gothic Lolita” and “Elegant Gothic Aristocrat”. It’s a no-no to refer to a style by these terms. It’d be like calling an American urban street style, Nike.

Lolita fashion first started round 1979. There was a fashion brand called Pink House that created pretty clothes for housewives to wear. It’s a rumor that Pink House was the first house to manufacture this fashion. Pink House no longer makes loli-esque clothing.

Gothic and Lolita are NOT cosplay. However, there are cosplay lolitas. Meaning, that most lolitas dress up loli because they would normally dress that way. There are people, on the other hand, who dress loli as a cosplay. Make sense?

While this panel stressed that people interested in lolita should make it unique to themselves, there still seem to be many gals/guys who adhere to a set of rules. Some American lolis have a strict code for being lolita. Any deviation from these guidelines results in the equivalent of an online and/or verbal drive-by. Novala, a Japanese author accredited to helping to create lolita fashion, had this to say in the latest Gothic & Lolita Bible in a article called, “Rules of the Lolita”, about the matter :

“So you say you want to become a Lolita.
It’s okay if you just become one, but you’re asking me.
What do I do to become a Lolita?
I don’t have a set response.
Well, I’ll need a headdress, and a pannier.
Does my outfit coordination look funny?
Am I making mistakes in Lolita?
Hey, why do you want to be a Lolita anyway?
Well, it’s popular, and my friends are doing it…
But, there aren’t any requirements to becoming a Lolita.
If you just imitate it, you’ll eventually achieve the appearance.
But I want to think about it.
Who are you living for?
If you think about your situation, you’re just afraid of being lonely.
You’re shouting out for freedom, but you’re only comfortable within rules.
I admire you for not offering up your full submission.
You Vivienne Westwood girls who don’t know who the Sex Pistols are.
Even when wearing a sweater, a princess is still a princess.
My rules for Lolita are my rules alone,
and only you can come to realize your own Lolita rules.
My gods and your gods are different.
There are angels wrapped in elegant love, striking tambourines, and if you keep them inside, they’ll be there to do their job when you take out your sword and fight.
Sometimes it’s hard for me to hear them.
I have a hint for you, though.
I’m not the only one who has realized this.
The answer to your thoughts about wanting to be proper.
Embroider frills to the bottom of your heart!
Place a tiara atop your soul!
And most of all, have pride.”

Translated by Curiosity

Two other guidelines set up by Novala are:

• Skirts must go below the knee
• Bangs must hit the eyebrows

Curiosity, the lolita co-moderator, showed up in time to add her translation of the article to the conversation. She’s a full time loli, choosing to wear name brand lolita fashions 24-7. When asked how much of a budget a loli would need to be that dedicated, she said “Astronomical”. Still haven’t found an exact number for that…

The panel wrapped up and we took our leave, but not without having a quick word with Curiosity. I’m afraid I gushed a bit when I said that her panel last year was what got me interested in lolita fashion. I then invited her to write for the site. I hope she does; she’s one enlightened and enlightening lolita!

UPDATED: Watch a video excerpt of the panel:

Reader: What’s the difference between a crinoline, pettipants, and a petticoat?

Codi: Pettipants (more frequently called bloomers), are exactly what they sound like – pants. They add a nice floof under any dress, and also I like the feeling of them keeping me cool in summer and warm in winter. A crinoline and petticoat are pretty much the same thing. Layers of tulle piled on top of each other to make a sizable floof. When I think crinolines, I think more-so of a circle shape. Although it works for square-dancing skirts (which are circle-shaped), it does not work for lolita, where many skirts are actually a trapezoid shape. (Therefore, wearing a square-dancing crinoline under a brand-named dress will usually create unnecessary wrinkles and poof rather awkwardly.) I think that these two items are the most essential to any lolita wardrobe!

Reader: Why are the dresses I see so many different lengths? Some are short some are long; what’s the average or standard length for a typical lolita dress/skirt?

Codi: Purely speaking lolita here, and not gothic, some lolitas prefer longer-styled skirts, as to fit with a “Classical Lolita” theme. The average length for a lolita dress (measuring from the waist measurement to the hem) is about 20 inches. Every house is different however (some measure 22 inches, for example.) However, 19-22 inches seem to be the most average for lolita wear! In my journeys however, I’ve noticed that brands like Metamorphose temps de fille will go much shorter or longer, depending on the style of the dress.

Brands such as Innocent World and Victorian Maiden however, have touched into longer styles, which measure about 43 inches in total. Innocent World offers them usually at winter time, offering an alternative to an average-length dress. Victorian Maiden will incorporate a longer style dependent upon the actual design of the dress.

Reader: I’m up for a promotion soon at a major corporation. What can I do to impress my superiors without looking like I’m brown-nosing?

Codi: Being impressive, while always delightful in male bonding situations, is unnecessary in high society! As long as you are true to yourself and to them, brown-nosing should not be a problem. Brown-nosing is such a commoner thing anyway!

Please let Codi know if you have any questions you’d like answered loli style by e-mailing her or by leaving them in the comment section.

In Japan, there are many brands or “houses” that cater to lolita needs, just as the West has famous fashion houses for contemporary style. For every Gucci, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana, Japan offers up Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Innocent World, and Angelic Pretty. To all lolitas just starting the loli lifestyle and to all seasoned lolitas, here’s some fashion info for winter from The Anime Blog’s Lolita Fashion Editor, Codi:

Lolita Winter Fashion Line-Up

by Codi

As Winter approaches, so does the line for Autumn and Winter goods from the various brands!

This year, however…your faithful loli is completely saddened by the lack of beautiful things to adore. Many brands this year started on pre-orders of their various winter goods much earlier than usual, with the standard coats and velveteen versions of already existing dresses. (I am staring at you icily, Baby, the Stars Shine Bright.)

The problem was there was nothing to fawn over! No brand this year is offering any stand-out series or coats; they are all dreadful re-hashings of things they’ve already done. Although there are certain things we come to expect with certain brands (Poodle series with Angelic Pretty, Sailor Series with Metamorphose, for example.), the lack of creativity still stands.

That being said, it was hard to find a common connecting theme or what is hot this year. Series (where brands take a print fabric and design a one-piece, jumper-skirt, skirt, bag, and matching headpiece with the fabric), are the only real trend for Winter. This is a surprising shock as prints are mostly left for the Summer lines. Angelic Pretty wins (and not necessarily in a good way) with not only one series, but four in total. Punk fashion house Putumayo comes in second for their tried and true Alice/drug-induced-themed prints. Metamorphose temps de fille completely loses for bringing out their kimono print, normally reserved for their summer kimono and summer pieces.

Another thing that’s always in style in Winter are plaids. Each brand offers their own plaids, and this year’s offerings were more like the plaids you’d find on the $1.00 a yard rack at the fabric store than in classy boutiques. Offering such gaudy plaids as orange and blue, and pink and black, Baby the Stars Shine Bright stray from their usual fare, but in the process lose all that is cute. A real winner here is Victorian Maiden, for using standard plaids with clean lines, and not using overkill with bells and whistles to distract from the plaid.

There is not all negativity in this! Many of the coats this year, while lacking any common theme, are simply divine. Ankle-length coats are in vogue this year, replacing the cutesy knee-length overdone ones. Simplicity and clean lines seem to be a common theme from everyone to Atelier Boz to Victorian Maiden. Innocent World shines with this, as their coats are exquisite without being gaudy. From a small choice in button design to one of the only brands offering gobelin print, Innocent World brings coats back to their humble beginnings in the lolita world. It is truly a Renaissance in a Victorian World.

Gothic Lolita is a distinctive style, though. Sweet or country Lolita is typically very innocent and girlish. Gothic Lolita, however, places more emphasis on the elegant elements of the style and typically is limited in color to black and white (with the occasional bit of red). Gothic Lolita, like sweet Lolita style, is inspired by Victorian clothing, but more particularly Victorian mourning clothing. It has been described as “French Maid meets Alice in Wonderland style” (Hell). The knee-length skirts and frills of the style mark it as particularly girlish while the fullness of the skirts, along with the types of materials used (velvet, brocade, etc.), mark it as more grown-up and serious.

As there are cultural concepts that do not translate well within sweet Lolita style (particularly the sexualized references to Nabokov), Gothic Lolita suffers from the same problem. The “Gothic” of the title is in no way associated with the Gothic style Westerners are familiar with. It represents for these girls and young women a period of elegance rather than scary stories and a morbid approach to life.

Worth checking out if you’re into the various Japanese underground fashions or even if you wonder why the hell they dress that way in the first place (and where it all originated)…

*UPDATE: The site is now defunct, but you can still get it via it’s archived page.

Lolita is just a broad term encompassing many categories and subcategories for this style. I was blown away by all the different types of lolis present at Anime Central 2006:

Gothic Lolita

Gothic Lolita is the most familiar variety of Lolita, made popular by Mana of the band Malice Mizer in Japan. The style incorporates mostly black clothing with white lace or vice versa. Dark colors may accompany the black and white, but only if suitably somber. Crosses and skulls are a must for accessories as is anything else morbid.

The attitude is darker than for other Lolis and not as carefree but still maintains some innocence which is essential for a Lolita. The complexion is pale and the make up should be dark with either red or black lipstick, or no make up at all.

Sweet Lolita

Sweet Lolita is the soft babyish Lolita as characterized by Momoko in the film Kamikaze Girls (written by Novala Takemoto BTW). Colors are soft pastels (pinks, baby blues, lavenders), and white with floral prints, plaids, frilly headbands, ribbons, fancy finger nails, and lace, lace, lace, lace! Stuffed animals and BJD (ball jointed dolls) are common accompaniments of the Sweet style.

Classic Lolita

Classic Lolita keeps the color palette of the Sweet but without the excessive cuteness and frills. Classic Lolita is more adult and brings to mind Alice in Wonderland with the apron and princess-waist style dresses.

Kodona

Kodona is not really a Lolita but it’s still a style that runs in the vein of the Lolita, keeping with the Victorian era. I have no idea what the word Kodona means, but it’s a masculine style of Victorian dress that compliments Lolita. Girls and guys who wear it are reminiscent of mischievous school boys like the ones in Oliver Twist.

Wa Lolita and Qi Lolita

Wa Lolita and Qi Lolita are Lolis that draw inspiration for their dresses from the traditional kimono and qipao respectively.

Aristocrat Lolita

Aristocrat Lolitas tend to wear longer, straighter skirts and cut waaay back on the frills. Blacks, burgundies, darker colors, and velvets abound. The look screams school teacher or librarian and the style is much, much, more mature than Sweet, Classic, or even Gothic. It is a modest style and is not seen as much as Sweet, Classic, or Gothic.

Casual Lolita

Casual Lolita will probably be the gateway Lolita for most Americans as anyone can do it without really looking like your “dressing” like a Loli. Casual Loli is the simplest version of Lolita, giving a person ample opportunity to play with Lolita stylings without going all out and spending a fortune. The style is like Gothic but not so stern. T-shirts, chains and combat boots are all acceptable for Casual. Just think American Goth with a petticoat and some lace and there you have it.

Ero Lolita

Ero Lolita is a very mature version of Lolita that’s kinda like Gothic but showing more skin and bringing fetishes and leather to the mix. It’s still considered Lolita even though it’s not as demure as its counterparts; older women tend to gravitate towards the Ero Lolita style. The moderator was adamant that you’re no longer considered a Lolita once you start acting indecently and immodestly even though you’re dressed for just that.

Ojisama

Ojisama is the male counterpart to the Lolita style. Ojisama is the Japanese word for prince, and just as Lolitas are lil’ princesses so are Ojisama princes. Ojisama dress as any well mannered gentleman would have dressed back in Victorian times. They are NOT like the Kodona. The Kodona are rakish scoundrel looking folk whereas Ojisama are men of society.

Gory Lolita

Gory Lolita is a style I have never heard, seen, or dreamed before, but the panel mentioned it as a form of Lolita. Gory Loli is a version of Loli where the girl or guy dresses as a usual Lolita, then pours buckets of red paint or dye on their outfits. WTF?! Really? Do these people actually have that much money lying around that they can take an uber-expensive outfit and turn it into a bloody ruin? One possible reason for this style is that these Lolis have a thing for Jack the Ripper, the macabre, and/or are probably “touched” for all I know. Whatever buddy, to each their own.

I’ve only listed those varieties of Lolita that I’m most familiar with and feel comfortable writing about. I know that there are many more sub categories out there, with more and more popping up every day as the style progressively gets more popular. I’m aware of the Punk Lolita and the Nurse Lolita (maybe a sub category to Gory) but since I don’t have enough info on those I won’t be writing about them till I do.

The standards for makeup differ in some varieties of Lolis but the look for most Lolita styles remains constant; little or no makeup, and keep the face fresh and young. Of course for Gothic and Eros I’ve seen people smear on the black eye shadow and whiten their face with Ben Nye theatre makeup and then slap on a generous amount of black, red, purple, whatever, but DARK lipstick a la Mana. I imagine with Punk and Casual you can go any way you want to with the make up as well, but for Classic and Sweet the makeup must be at a minimum.

Lolita Hair

Lolita hair always eluded me as to how to get those perfect ringlets until I asked someone at the Loli panel how they did it. They said they used wigs and hair pieces which sounds simple but expensive. A good wig will probably run you $50 then add on the pieces, and whoa, pricey, but no one ever said going Loli was cheap.

Lolita Nails

Have you seen the other accessory that’s a must with most Lolitas? What’s with having those outrageous nails? How is that Lolita? You obviously can’t do much with nails that are manicured 10 ways to Sunday without fear of chipping something that cost a quarter of someone’s paycheck; I guess that’s the point. I just have never seen a little Victorian girl with long-ass acrylic nails with plastic roses glued on the tips, sorry. Must be a modern day Victorian affectation…

Lolita Poll

Early Lolitas hand sewed and designed their clothing themselves and many still do. A poll I took at Anime Central this year revealed that:

• 33% of the Lolitas that attended completely handmade their outfits
• 33% bought theirs online or from someone else that made them for them
• 33% were a composite of the two

So where can a stateside wanna be who can’t sew get hooked up? Some sites I found are:

• Apple Sugar
• Candy Violet
• Cosmates
• In the Starlight
• Milk Pearl
• Moi-Meme-Moitie (Mana’s clothing line)
• Noir Desir
• Supert3ch

Hot Topic has even jumped on the wagon and started selling Gothic Lolita style garb so that helps to a degree, but not if you want something truly unique, individualized, Sweet or Classic.

Ladies, a word to all those out there that are broke like me yet want something you can’t find anywhere else: thrift, thrift, thrift!! Get well acquainted with all the Goodwill’s and Salvation Armies in St. Louis cause believe it or not you can totally find a super cool loli outfit for under $40 not including the shoes if you really try.

Note: All images of Lolitas were taken at Anime Central 2006 unless otherwise noted.