When I found out that the Gothic & Lolita Bible was being licensed for release in the U.S., I was pretty psyched! For those of you who might not know what that is, it’s a collector’s magazine (dubbed a “mook” by the Japanese–somewhere between a magazine and a book) that showcases some amazing fashions unique to Tokyo. As the title implies, it’s an assorted collection of Gothic and Lolita styles as well as Punk and mixtures of said fashions (such as Gothic Lolita). It appeals to both cosplayers and fashionistas worldwide–but until now, only those able to read Japanese could bask in its entire glory.

Review

The editors state in a “popcast” that the first English Bible is more of a beginner’s guide than anything else, and that they plan on having more in-depth issues following this one. My question is: Was a beginner’s guide really necessary? Thousands of Gothic and Lolita adherents have been waiting years for this moment; we don’t need an introduction to the fashion we already like. Luckily, there is a good chunk of content that isn’t tailored specifically to the beginner–for example, there are quite a few interviews, and I enjoyed every single one! It’s also fun to read translations of some of the things I’ve seen in my Japanese Bibles.

The biggest disappointment for me is the noticeable lack of Gothic representation within the new English content. What gives the Gothic & Lolita Bible (abbreviated GLB) its namesake is the endless duality it provides by showcasing Gothic AND Lolita side-by-side. It’s 50/50, not 30/70, as senior editor Jenna Winterberg expressed in the popcast. She also noted that Gothic styles in Japan look different than they do here, a comment that I appreciate–why not show how different they are and appeal to those who enjoy them?

Why not take it a step further and examine Western-based news and trends that appeal to both Goths and Lolitas? For example, Goth-prince Voltaire, who hails from New York, recently recorded a music video with Gothic Lolitas cast among other elegant extras. Why not do an interview with him in the future? To offset that, an interview with someone from the Baby, the Stars Shine Bright store opening in San Fransisco could be placed next to it.

I do like Lolita fashion, but it’s not my preferred identity within the Gothic and Lolita spectrum, and unlike the Japanese version, the English GLB hasn’t represented me very well.

Despite this, the articles are quick, easy reads, and the vocabulary is smooth like butter. I also have to hand it to the photo management–all of the pictures are beautifully sharp, even the ones submitted by fans. This is a crucial asset to a fashion magazine.

Content

Although they’re skillfully written, the content of most of the new English articles read more like they were written by observers of Gothic and Lolita than participants. More specifically, they read like a fanatical rehash of egl community FAQs and conversations. If I wanted that, I would just go to the egl community. Ironically, the article written by egl community members is probably the most authentic to the Gothic and Lolita subculture outside of Japan.

One of my biggest pet-peeves about Gothic and Lolita articles is that for some reason, people think that backing up their claims with research is unnecessary. I don’t even know how to correct the history article in the front of the magazine, because parts of it are true for Gothic Lolita (that it has ties to Visual-kei), but not for all Lolita, which is what the author claims to be writing about halfway through the article–and it doesn’t even mention Gothic or Lolita origins prior to their popularity in the late ’90s. There are other articles where they seem to use “Lolita” as shorthand for “Gothic and Lolita” that made me think, Wait, are you talking about both, or just Lolita?

The translated content was a let-down as well. Because most of us can’t read Japanese, the GLBs have been more like picture books than magazines. When I heard the first English version would include translations from four GLBs, I was hoping I would finally be able to read some of those interesting-looking articles. But in fact, there are more reprinted photos than translated articles. Oh well, so much for that hope.

What’s more, I assumed they would either choose content from the four earliest or four most recent volumes, but they seem to have randomly chosen volumes 15, 16, 21, and 23. Volume 16, from which they reprinted the brand catalog, is from 2005–three years ago!

The interviews are the Bible’s saving grace. They’ve reeled in some of the most influential figures of Gothic and Lolita in Japan, including Nana Kitade and Mitsukazu Mihara. They’ve also managed to catch some time from some brand-house employees as well as some Lolitas closer to home, namely Aimee Major Steinberger, author of Japan Ai, and Vivien Hoffpauir of the store Candy Violet. Being able to delve into the lives of all of these talented people was an absolute pleasure, and their thoughts on Gothic and Lolita resonated well with me.

Fan Participation

The magazine’s strongest point is the amount of participation they requested from fans and adherents of the fashion. Not only do they include some art and poetry, but an entire article is written by Lolitas from the egl community, complete with photos of some of its members. A call for submissions appears on more than one page.

There isn’t much to discuss here because it doesn’t seem like many have answered to Tokyopop’s call yet. I hope more people participate in the future, because the GLB editors are extending a generous hand out to us. The more they know what we like and want, the better they will be able to please us in the future.

Patterns

The patterns were chosen well, because there are items for Goths and Lolitas, in the true spirit of the Gothic & Lolita Bible. Also, they are not clothes, but accessories–an Alice bow and matching bag, a wolf hat and matching gloves, a bunny-ear cape, and a pirate/punk cat-ear headpiece–so no worries about the patterns not fitting you!

There are difficulty levels printed near the items and they seem simple enough to make, but I wouldn’t recommend trying to assemble them without a basic knowledge of sewing terms and techniques. All four sets of accessories are printed on one page, so the directions for each item are small and precise and there are no pictures to guide you through the process.

Conclusion

The first volume of the English GLB is either hit or miss. Some might find delightful relief in a Gothic and Lolita publication that they can actually read, and others might cringe at how hard it tries to be Lolita. I suggest checking out a visual review of the magazine before you decide to fork over $20 for something you might either love or hate. You can view Tokyopop’s popcast, an amazon.com preview, or if you can’t wait, head to your local bookstore and flip through a copy yourself. (Note: It seems some store catalogs list this as the “Gothic & Lolita Collection”–just an fyi in case you need them to help you locate it.)

Madam Style

My impression of Gothic Madam is that of a grown-up Gothic Lolita; feminine and frilly with a hint of vintage, but minus the parts that make Lolita–the short skirt and petticoat, the cute collar and sleeves, and the childlikeness in general. It’s hard to find photos of people who call their style Madam, so I still have more studying to do, but it is definitely a style that exists in Tokyo street life.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• A dark or gothic aesthetic is essential. It is sometimes based on black, black-and-white (but classical) or Japanese fabrics and motifs (similar to those found in Classic Lolita and Waloli) can be implemented for a personalized look.
• Keep the general fashion sense and modesty of Gothic Lolita, but go for a mature femininity rather than a cute, girly one. It’s not necessarily a sophisticated and adultish style; rather, dress more your own age.
• Knee-length or shin-length skirts are common, but only skirts that do not require a petticoat (they are obviously Lolita if they do). They are usually, but not always, asymmetrical. Mermaid skirts (skirts that are form-fitted across the thighs but flare out at the bottom) are also in style.

Ouji style

Ouji (sometimes called Goth-Ouji, Ouji-kei, or Oujisama esp. by Westerners) is not a foreign term to our ears. Ouji means “Prince”, and is usually Prince-like, but mostly, it just means that this is a man’s style. We sometimes call this Dandy, but modern Dandy fashion is an entirely different world made up of adult and middle-aged men with a specific fashion aesthetic. I suppose if you are a gentleman who identifies well with Dandyism, you could add some Gothic influence to it to become a bonafide Gothic Dandy!

Sometimes this man-style is referred to as “Unisex” because women like to wear Ouji as well. Some women Ouji like to adopt a bishounen look. It makes sense for a woman to want to look like a man who looks like a woman, right? (Sarcasm not intended…)

Ouji is NOT, however, the ONLY men’s style in Gothic and Lolita. I’m just telling you about it because it is often associated with Aristocrat in the Western Goth-loli community. It is actually not always as elegant as our interpretation of Aristocrat would have us believe–Punk-styled Ouji is quite common.

Please Note: There is another style called Ouji-loli, and this should not be confused with Ouji-style. Westerners know Ouji-loli as “Kodona”, and it is cute and boyish–childlike, not Aristocratic. Ouji-loli is for girls. Please do not mix these up.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• The difference between Elegant style and Ouji style is a little blurry to me, but my guesses are: 1. Ouji is less pretty/androgynous/vampiric and more manly/princely, and allows punk influence, 2. Elegant is a ladies’ style (as I speculated in the first article).
• Ouji has a lot of leeway, and depending on the style you want to achieve, you can choose from elegant shirts with ruffles to gauze shirts with ripped hems and exaggerated collars. You usually want a button-up shirt, but that may not necessarily always be the case. (For example, Atelier Boz is currently selling some strange turtlenecks.) A normal dress shirt is ok, but it doesn’t really have the same feel as a gothic- or punk-influenced one…unless you alter it!
• Knickerbockers are a popular choice, and are a staple of Ouji fashion much the way puffy, knee-length skirts are of Lolita. They end well below the knee, and the bottoms are usually fitted to the legs, although some men like to wear loose-fitting ones instead. They are meant to be worn with long sock or stockings underneath.
• Long coats (such as the frock coat) and vests are common but not necessary.
• Cravats are also common but not necessary.
• An Ouji can wear a full-size hat or a mini-hat, but mini-hats are usually only seen in punkish styles. And speaking of accessories, canes or walking sticks with Gothic handles (ex., a skull on top) make a powerful accent to your ensemble.

Conclusion

If you would like to become an Aristocrat, Elegant Goth, Madam, or Ouji, I hope my tips help you find a starting ground, but my final advice to you is this: let no one tell you what you should and shouldn’t wear, because there will always be someone to challenge the rules and create exceptions. Find a Gothic & Lolita Bible or a Gothic and Lolita website–better if you find several–and look at the photos. Pick out the things you like and buy or imitate them. Do not be lazy, bashful, or uncertain! Put all of your effort into achieving your desired style! In time you will get the hang of it, understand what is and is not appropriate, and you will probably discover your own unique fashion quirks to boot.

——————-
Kuroloki Roku will be a graduate of Columbia College Chicago in May 2008. She and her Prince reside in a hidden fortress in Chicagoland, and together they enjoy sipping tea, dressing up for outings, and playing DDR. Readers can find Roku’s Goth-loli blog at kuroloki.wordpress.com. Roku would like to have a career as an illustrator and graphic novelist.

The traditional clothing of Japan are also quite artistic, if in a more subtle and refined way. Most clothing worn at the time were utilitarian and served a purpose: keep a person dry and warm or to better enable the drawing of a sword. Some was ornamental, like the many layered kimono favored by women of rank.

How much do you think you know about Japanese fashion and attire, past and present? A lot? A little? Do you consider yourself a Japanese clothing historian, or are you up to date on the latest in Shinjuku? Find out in Past to Present: A Quiz for Fans of Japanese Fashion!

(Answers and actual fashion facts given are below the quiz. The quiz is off site but come back to rate your score and see how you did!!! No peeking until you’re done!)

Rate your score!

• 100-90%= Sugoi!! You’re a regular Japanese fashionista!!!
• 89-80%= Yatta! Way to know your Gothic from your Lolita!
• 79-60%= Genki. You’re learning Japanese fashion one geta at a time!
• 59-40%= Ma-ma. Meh, you can do better.
• Below 40%= Baka! You need to spend some serious time in Harajuku!!

1. False. Geta are wooden clogs much favored for wearing during the rainy and snowy season since they keep feet dry by virtue of being elevated on two wooden blocks.

2. True. Obi is translated literally as kimono sash. These sashes can be simple and utilitarian or beautiful and artistic. They serve as both closure and decoration.

3. False. These are all hairstyles worn by women in different stages of their geisha training. Wareshinobu, Ofuku, Katsuyama and Yakko-Shimada are worn by maiko (geisha in training.)

4. False. Tabi are the split socks used when wearing geta or zori. Anyone can wear them, no matter their rank.

5. True. Yukata are light weight summer kimono. Cotton is an ideal choice for yukata since the fabric “breathes” well.

6. False. This elaborate kimono from the Heian Period is actually made of twelve (ju ni) layers, not fourteen.

7. True. Kanzashi are seasonal, decorative hair ornaments worn by women to compliment their elaborate dos. It’d be a no-no to wear momiji (maple leaves) in spring.

8. False. Happi are traditionally short coats worn by shop keepers. Nowadays, sushi chefs, taiko drummers, and festival goers also sport happi.

9. True. And like their American counterpart, zori hurt like the dickens.

10. True. Shibori is the Japanese term encompassing, but not limited to, tie-dyeing.

11. False. The line of the kimono should be on the right hand side. Only the dead wear the kimono aligned to the left.

12. True. Hakama were originally worn only by samurai, but the practice spread to other classes as well.

13. False. Yukata are summer kimono, and are worn by both men and women. Kimono are also worn by both sexes.

14. False. Yo- refers to the West and -fuku translates as clothing. Yofuku: Western clothing.

15. False. Street fashion is genre of fashion which is anything but “mainstream”. Wearers of street fashion really stand out in a crowd, not blend into it.

16. True. The wa- refers to traditional Japan. The fashion was made popular by Japanese fashion designer, Takuya Sawada.

17. False. This is one school uniform worn only by girl’s. Sera, is “sailor” and fuku is clothing or uniform; in this case, uniform. It’s popular in anime for schoolgirl’s to be wearing sailor suits.

18. True. But Aristocrats don’t have much in common with their colorful, puffy counterparts. Aristocrats like to dress in a dignified manner reminiscent of Victorian schoolmarms.

19. True. These “gals” prefer to spend cash and show off how they spent it. High heels, dark tans and blonde hair are indicative to the style. There are also various sub-styles to the Kogals, but Kogal was the first on the scene.

20. False. This fashion craze has been going strong for some time now. Schoolgirls like to accessorize their rather blah uniforms with these baggy leg warmer-like creations. The style shows no sign of letting up any time soon, either.

21. False Actually, Yamanba, characterized by wild hair, super-dark fake tans, and aboriginal-style makeup, is a sub-style of Kogal.

22. False. Yet again we have another sub style of Kogal. Ganguro (black face) sport blonde hair, white eyeliner and lipstick, long nails, short miniskirts, and high heels.

23. True. But only on the weekends. However, many street style-wearing young people flock to Harajuka to hang out and be seen, not just goth lolis.

24. True. Long, highly decorative nails are a favorite among young women.

25. False. Those dark colors won’t go anywhere near a sweet loli. Pinks, lilacs, creams and baby blues are the only colors fitting for a confection such as a sweet lolita.

26. False. Gotcha! Mana is the person responsible for creating the EGL/ EGA brand of clothing, however, Mana is a man, not a woman.

27. True. And how! Decora fans look like over qualified applicants for the Rainbow Brite show. They practically glow with all the blinding colors they adorn themselves with.

28. True. Goodbye black hair, hello auburn!

29. True. Ojisama means prince, and the men who follow this style do look like European princes in their tails and ruffles.

30. False. Think of Japanese street styles as young people’s way to express themselves within a highly conforming and homogenized society. It’s their way of making a statement via fashion.

What you seek is a commission. Your first step is to select the particular item you would like to have personally crafted for you. In order to better explain the process, let’s imagine that you’ve fallen in love with this black velvet Shirley Temple one piece. But alas, even if you obtained the original, it’s been designed for pre-teen girls! Only an eight-year-old could ever fit into such a thing! You must have it re-created in your size.

pictures

Begin by gathering up as many photos of this item as you can. Luckily for us, we have both a front and back photo. But what if we could find no back photo? The rest of the garment would be a mystery. Therefore it is up to you, the consumer, to fill in any gaps in information. Shall we leave it plain? How about a large bow? Maybe even a few ruffles? The choice is yours. (Of course you can make these suggestions even if you have the photo, it is your commission.)

finding a seamstress

Step two involves finding a reputable seamstress, preferably someone who has extensive experience with Lolita fashion. Don’t worry if it takes a little time to decide on who you feel will be perfect for your project. Ask around; other Lolitas are usually eager to share their commission experiences, both good and bad.

Post your Shirley Temple photos. Once you contact (or are contacted by) a potential sewing expert, inquire as to the cost of labor, materials and the like. Request credentials, references, and photos of previous commissions. Ask what her current queue looks like, and when you can expect your piece to be finished.

Questions to ask

Inquire as to any return or refund policies.Your seamstress is most likely not making a living sewing Lolita clothing, so she may have you enter into a contract that states you will pay for the dress regardless of the final result. Ask if, after your dress is complete, might you be able to ship it back to have a fitting issue resolved? Would you have to pay extra for this service, or is it included in the overall cost? These are matters that must be settled before the commission begins, to avoid misunderstandings later.

material

When it comes to materials, you can select them yourself and ship them (if you live in the same area as your commissioner, you may be able to go shopping together). Or, you can describe a price range (the most expensive, luxurious velvet? Something durable that will not show wear over time?), and trust the seamstress to buy the fabric and lace for you. In order to know how much material will be used, you will have to be measured.

measurements

A word about measurements: accurate measurements make accurate commissions. I suggest that you visit your nearest dry cleaners, and have yourself professionally measured. This clears up any misconceptions as to where to place the measuring tape, and also reduces the desire to cheat. Do not tell yourself “I should order it a bit small, because I’m planning on losing ten pounds.” SEND IN CURRENT, BRUTALLY EXACT MEASUREMENTS, not the measurements of the future! I cannot stress this enough!

At this point you have chosen your design, you’ve been measured, and you’ve agreed upon a payment method. Your photo and measurements are now in the hands of the seamstress. Can you just sit back and wait for your beautiful Shirley Temple recreation to arrive in the mail? No! You should remain in contact with her throughout the whole process. If you did not provide your own material, ask for photos of the types of trim that will be used (in this case, three different widths of white eyelet lace). The local fabric store might not have something that is identical to the original, so make sure you like what your seamstress has selected.

work in progress

Ask to see photos of the work in progress. If you are happy with your dress during the sewing stage, it’s likely that you will be happy with the end result. It may be possible to change a few details while the garment is under construction, but those same details may be near-impossible to change when the whole thing is said and done. If your seamstress is not as communicative as you would like, realize that her workload may be particularly heavy and try to be understanding.

On the happy day when you finally receive your dress, inspect it for obvious flaws. Try it on and make sure that it fits perfectly. If there is a problem, you should already be aware of the post-completion policies of your seamstress. If you are unsatisfied with the finished product, do your absolute best to work it out with her directly. If you are overjoyed with your purchase, don’t forget to send her a gushing email and a photo of yourself modeling her excellent work!

About Curiosity: Curiosity Valentine is a contributing Lolita fashion writer with extensive knowledge of Lolita fashion. She’s spent time in Japan studying the subject matter and learning the language. She’s also the lead singer in the Gothic Lolita Industrial Jazz band, Curiosity. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below!

Pink Dress photo © Copyright In the Starlight.