Taiyaki, literally, “grilled sea bream”, is a wheat batter-based confection, much like pancakes and waffles, filled with bean jam (anko) and grilled in a fish-shaped iron. The result is a slightly crispy sea bream-shaped goodie perfect for on-the-go munching.

If you plan on making taiyaki, you’ll need a taiyaki-ki (taiyaki mold). But if you’re simply after the flavor of taiyaki, you can also make silver dollar size cakes with the batter and fill them with anko. This confection is called dorayaki (literally, “grilled gong”, in allusion to their round shape).

I wanted a more crisp bread for my taiyaki and have tweaked a krumkake recipe I found online. This recipe yields a firm, light crust that’s not too sweet.

Taiyaki

• 1 1/4 cup flour
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 2 1/2 Tbs. cornstarch
• 3 Tbs. water
• 3 large eggs, room temperature
• 2 Tbs. honey (optional)
• 1 1/2 cups anko, room temperature

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and cornstarch. Set aside.

Beat together the eggs, honey, if using, and sugar till frothy and to it add the flour mixture and water. Whip till smooth.

Preheat a taiyaki-ki and brush it lightly with oil. Pour in a small amount of batter to the preheated pan, add a tablespoon of anko and more batter as necessary to fill in the details. Close and latch the pan.

Turn the heat to medium low and cook about 30 seconds then turn the pan over. Heat evenly for a minute and turn again. Repeat. The taiyaki are done when you can easily open the iron and the taiyaki are a golden brown, about 4 minutes. Serve immediately.

Makes 12 Taiyaki

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 30 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Easy

The Japanese use fillings other than anko for taiyaki. Chocolate, custard and even savory fillings are also popular additives. Use whatever you like; make it your okonomi-taiyaki!

You can make dorayaki with this recipe and add more honey to up the flavor and make it more moist. If you want, cut shapes from the dorayaki with a cookie cutter while the cakes are still warm. You can then sandwich anko between them.

This recipe is the easiest dango to make. It’s simple, uses the least ingredients and can be used in soups or as a dessert.

Easy Dango

• 1 cup mochiko
• 1/4 boiling water

Fill a medium size saucepan with water and set it to boil.

Slowly add a small amount of the boiling water to the mochiko and carefully knead the mochiko dough together with your hands. Keep slowly adding the water until the dough is the consistency of an earlobe. Form the dough into small balls and add them to the boiling water. If using the dango in soup, add them to the simmering soup.

Cook the dango for 8 minutes or until they float to the surface. If making the dango in water, use a slotted spoon to remove the dango and then toast ‘em or top them with your choice of sauces.

Makes 10 dumplings

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 15 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

This basic dango recipe is a cinch to make if you have mochiko and joshinko. I find this particular combination of mochiko (glutinous rice flour) and joshinko (non-glutinous rice flour) yields dango with just the right amount of gooieness to chew on and enough firmness for the dango to hold their shape. These dango can be topped with a wide variety of sauces, from mocha to mitarashi. Use these blank slates as tasty canvases for your dango experimentation!

Basic Dango

• 1 cup mochiko
• 2 Tbls. joshinko
• 1/3 cup boiling water

Whisk together the rice flours till they’re well blended.

Slowly add the boiling water a little at a time to the flours, mix it as much as possible with a fork and then knead it with your hands, being careful not to burn yourself. *Note: Thoroughly mixing the mochiko and the water together with a fork or spoon does not work, and will give zero indication as to whether the correct amount of water is being added.

Slowly add more water until the dough is “soft as an earlobe”.

Form the dango into 1 inch balls and place them 1/2 inch apart on a lightly greased steamer tray. Steam on high for 7 minutes. Let the dango cool and thread 3-4 dango onto a skewer.

Either serve immediately or toast the dango. To toast the dango, heat an oven to broil and place the skewered dango in the pre-heated oven. Keep a close eye on the dango and remove them once they’re a golden brown. Top them with sauces and serve hot.

Makes 6-8 skewers

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 20 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

Here’s a popular dumpling recipe made using basic dango topped with a sweet soy-based sauce.

Mitarashi Dango

• 1 recipe Basic Dango

• 1/2 cup light soy sauce (dark may be used as well)
• 4 Tbls. mirin
• 4 Tbls. dashi stock
• 1/2 cup white or brown sugar
• 1 Tbls. katakuriko (potato starch) or cornstarch, (optional)

Make the dango as per the Basic Dango recipe. While dango are steaming, make the sauce.

Make the sauce by mixing the the soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar together in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and then simmer for two minutes until the sugar dissolves. You may thicken the sauce by reducing it, but the mitrashi may caramelize. This method produces an intense flavor and a very shiny mitarashi.

If reducing isn’t your preferential way of thickening, then dissolve the starch in a tablespoon of water. Add the starch water to the simmering sauce and stir it in quickly. Cook and stir the sauce over low heat until the sauce thickens to your taste. Set aside.

Toast the steamed dango and top them with the mitarashi sauce. Serve immediately.

Makes 8 skewers

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 25 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

This dango is a seasonal wagashi eaten during the cherry blossom season. Enjoy hanami dango on your next nature outing and savor a bit of hanami in your own picnic basket!

Hanami Dango

The recipe is off site in my article for Sauce’s March issue. Check it out on the right sidebar!

• Note: After the dango are steamed, the green dango (yomogi or matcha) will start to turn a very dark green, and in the case of yomogi, almost black. This is perfectly normal, but doesn’t look too appealing after an hour or so. To cut back on the oxidation process, use less yomogi or switch to matcha. Use less matcha for a pastel mint color. But less matcha also means less flavor so if you’re keen on green tea and are presenting the dango to friends, try and serve the dango straight from the steamer, or keep them warm till they’re ready to be eaten to delay the oxidation.

Makes 10 skewers

Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 1 hour | Ingredient Availability: Difficult

I was inspired to create a recipe for this famous dango by the many fans who were curious about it. Botchan dango is a regional dango from Matsuyama which was made famous by Soseki Natsume’s novel, “Botchan“. This dango is a sanshoku dango (three colored dango) made from bean paste (an), egg yolk (kimi) and green tea powder (matcha) and filled with white bean paste (shiro an). I used a microwave to help make the recipe, but you can also heat the ingredients on a stove top. This is a difficult recipe but well worth the effort!

Botchan Dango

Filling

• 1/2 cup shiro an
• 1 Tbls. mochiko

An Dango

• 1/4 cup plus 1 Tbls. mochiko
• 1 Tbls. joshinko
• 1/4 cup anko (tsubu or koshi)
• 2 Tbls. sugar
• scant amount hot water

Kimi Dango

• 2 egg yolks, beaten
• 2 Tbls. boiling water
• 2 Tbls. sugar
• 1/4 cup plus Tbls. mochiko
• 2 Tbls. sugar
• scant amount hot water

Matcha Dango

• 1 tsp. matcha
• 1/4 cup plus 2 Tbls. mochiko
• 3 Tbls. joshinko
• 3 Tbls. sugar
• 1 1/2 tbls. water
• scant amount hot water

• sugar water for smoothing

Make the filling by mixing together the shiro an and the mochiko. Spread the shiro an mixture onto a clean cotton cloth and steam it on high for 10 minutes. Allow the mixture to cool and form the dough into 18 equal sized balls. Cover the balls with plastic wrap and set them aside.

An
Make the an dango by mixing together the mochiko and joshinko and set aside.

Mix together the sugar and anko and heat the mix until it starts to bubble, about 30 seconds in the microwave.

Add the hot anko to the flours and knead it in well. Depending on evaporation and type of anko used, you may have to add some water to make the dough more pliable. Add hot water a few drops at a time to the dough until it’s soft enough to easily form into balls. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and set aside.

Kimi
Make the kimi dango by whisking together the mochiko and joshinko and set aside.

Add the sugar to the boiling water and stir to dissolve. Add the egg yolks to the hot sugar water and heat until the mixture thickens. In the microwave, heat the egg mix for 5 second intervals, then stir it well. Heat then stir. Repeat. The mixture should be a creamy yellow, slightly thick and frothy.

Add the cooked yolks to the flours. Knead the mixture well, and add enough water to create a supple, but not sticky, dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and set aside.

Matcha
Make the matcha dango by whisking the flours and matcha together.

Dissolve the sugar in the water and heat until it barely boils, about 30 seconds in the microwave. Add the boiling sugar water to the flours and carefully knead the dough well, adding enough water to make a supple dough .

Assembling the Botchan Dango
Divide the an dough into 6 equal size balls. Cover them to prevent drying and repeat with the kimi and matcha doughs. There should be 18 balls in total; 6 an, 6 kimi and 6 matcha.

Take a ball of the an dough and flatten it in a slightly dampened, clean palm. Place a ball of shiro an dough in the center of the an round and carefully cover the shiro an with the an dough. Do not overstretch the dough. Make sure it’s an even thickness throughout. Smooth the ball, using a dab of sugar water if needed.

Repeat with the rest of the an dough. Cover to prevent drying and repeat with the kimi and an balls.

Skewer the finished balls in order of an, kimi and matcha. Steam on high for 10-12 minutes. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 skewers

Difficulty: Difficult | Time: 1 hour 30 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Difficult

I love malted milk balls and I love dango. My insane desire to see the two merged was what fired the ol’ noogin to craft this recipe. It’s a great example of how creative you can be with dango!

Inside Out Malted Milk Dango

• 3/4 cup mochiko
• 3 Tbls. joshinko
• 3 Tbls. baking cocoa
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1 Tbls. instant milk powder
• 1/4 boiling water
• 1/4 cup malt powder (not malted milk*)
• 3 Tbls. sugar
• 1/4 water

Mix together the mochiko, joshinko, cocoa and dry milk.

Add the sugar to the boiling water and stir to dissolve it. Slowly add the hot sugar water to the dry ingredients a little at a time. Knead the dough and add more water as necessary to create a supple, but not mushy, dough.

Roll the dough into 1 inch balls. Place the balls 1/2 apart on a steam tray and steam them on high for 7 minutes.

While the balls are cooling, make the sauce by mixing together the malt, sugar and water. Heat the mixture on low heat, stirring constantly. Let the sauce reduce to desired thickness and set aside.

Skewer the chocolate dango, three per stick. Top the dango with the malt sauce and serve immediately.

Makes 7 skewers.

Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 30 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

*I used malt flour, which is malt powder without the added milk or sugar. Malted milk powder, which already contains sugar plus milk and is readily available at supermarkets, may be used. Omit the sugar and cook till thickened to your taste.

There’s an incredible variety of sweet dessert-style dango, which makes the amount of savory varieties pale in comparison. Sweet dango can be filled, topped or crafted with all manner of traditional Japanese dessert (wagashi) foodstuffs. A few of these traditional ingredients include anko (also known as an), goma (black sesame) and kinako (roasted soybean flour).

However, dango aren’t limited to just Japanese ingredients. You can get creative like I did and create your own toppings for dango; it’s your wagashi- make whatever you want with it!

If you’ve ever considered making your own dango, either with traditional or personal ingredients, this is your lucky day! Today we’ll explore the possibilities with dango and look at the many varieties of the dumplings. Get your steamers ready guys, there’s more to dango than you think!

First, let’s break down the different ways of making dango, including cooking methods, ingredients, and end with varieties.

Cooking

Technically, all dango are cooked in some manner. There are many ways to prepare and cook dango, varying in degrees of simplicity and difficulty.

Boiling
The easiest way to make dango is:

• Mix together mochiko and water
• Make mochiko dough into balls
• Drop balls in boiling water, soup or other liquid
• Cook for about fifteen minutes

Steaming
The next step up from boiling would be:

• Form the mochiko dough into balls
• Steam the dango
• Skewer the balls (optional)
• Roast the dango (optional)

Twice Cooked
Higher up on the dango difficulty scale is what I call twice-cooked dango. To make this dango:

• Reduce dango batter from a viscous liquid to a solid dough
• Form dough into balls
• Thread balls on skewers and steam

Shiro An Method
This is a complex method of making dango, but will yield unique dumplings with an interesting flavor and texture:

• Mix mochiko with shiro koshian
• Steam mixture and work sugar into mix
• Add additional ingredients
• Form into balls and skewer

Flours

Mochiko, glutinous rice flour, is what gives dango their super chewy, gooey texture. Shiratamako, another glutinous rice flour, is also used to make dango. A dango recipe made entirely from mochiko or shiratamako will result in a very soft dango.

Shiratamako is lumpy, and must be dissolved in water or ground before using in a recipe. I’ve heard mochiko can be used interchangeably with shiratamako with little to no adverse results. I personally have used mochiko in place of shiratamako and haven’t noticed the difference. Mochiko is also waaaay cheaper than shiratamako, especially if it’s bought under the name “sweet rice flour”.

Joshinko, non-glutinous rice flour, can be added in varying amounts to create a firmer dango. I recommend a ratio of no more than 1:1 of mochiko to joshinko for dango which is firm but still has some gooey mouth feel. Anything above that results in a denser, less chewy, harder dango.

Liquids

Water is normally used as in making dango, and boiling water at that. However, nothing’s keeping you from substituting other liquids or semi-liquids (anko, mashed fruit, pumpkin filling, etc.) for a portion or all of the water. Fruit or vegetable juice, rose water, milk, tea, or coffee can all be added to dango to enhance the flavor and change the texture. Also, extracts and concentrated flavorings can be added to alter the flavor.

The more liquid used in dango, the softer and gooier it will be. Less water will create a firmer dango, but will also result in a drier dango. Keep in mind you want the liquids hot, unless you plan on cooking the dango ingredients together anyway. Boiling the liquids will dissolve sugars and help bind the mochiko to the other ingredients, which in turn results in smoother, less gritty dango.

Additives

Certain additives, such as powders, non-rice flours, beans, nuts and seeds can be added to the dough, but it’s important to keep in mind how they’ll effect the texture of the finished dango. Small amounts of powdered spices, espresso powder, cocoa, matcha and powdered milk can be added to the rice flour(s) or dissolved in the water/ juice to create flavored dough. Experimentation with amounts is important in finding a recipe that works with your preferred texture and flavorings.

Toppings

After the dango are steamed and/or toasted, it’s your choice what you top them with, if at all. I personally am a huge fan of anko and goma an (black sesame seed paste) on my plain toasted dango. Drowning freshly browned dango in a sea of beans and sesame seeds is more yummy than it sounds. It’s up to you, though, to choose what to cover your dango with.

Some traditional ideas are:

• Tsubu An: Chunky bean paste
• Koshi An: Smooth bean paste
• Shiro An: White bean paste
• Goma An: Black sesame paste
• Kurumi: Walnut powder
• Kuri: Chestnut powder or paste
• Kinako: Roasted soy bean flour
• Mitarashi: Sauce similar to teriyaki
• Matcha An: Green tea paste
• Zunda: Dango topped with slightly sweetened green soybean paste
• Nori: Savory dango wrapped in seaweed

Dango Varities

Dango are named after their toppings, their added ingredients to the dough and their fillings. The above are a sampling of dango named after toppings (goma dango, an dango) but there are also dango named after what’s in the dough and the finished dango or how they’re cooked:

• Matcha Dango: Green tea powder flavored dango
• Kibi dango: Dango made with millet starch
• Yomogi/ Kusa Dango: Mugwort flavored dumplings (kusa dango were originally flavored with cudweed)
• Gomasuri Dango: Lil’ dumplings filled with black sesame paste
• Zunda dango: Dango filled with green soybean paste
• Sasa Dango: Dumplings filled with anko and steamed in bamboo leaves
• Kushi Dango: Skewered dumplings
• Sanshoku Dango (Three Color Dumplings: Sanshoku (three colors): Dumplings made with three colors. Contrary to popular belief, sanshoku dango does not refer to a specific variety. Any dango with three colors is sanshoku dango, including hanami and botchan dango.

Dango are also named for festivals and even fictional characters!

• Hanami Dango (Flower Viewing Dumplings): Three dango on a skewer. Colors are pink (food coloring), white

(plain) and green (matcha, yomogi or food coloring). Hanami dango are eaten during cherry blossom season.

• Tsukimi Dango (Moon Viewing Dumplings): Non-skewered filled or plain dumplings. Usually presented as a pyramid shaped pile of dumplings, tsukimi dango are eaten during the moon viewing festival. I’ve seen ornate tsukimi dango shaped like usagi (bunnies!) as a homage to the mochi pounding rabbit in the moon.
• Ikinari Dango (All of a Sudden Dango): Don’t know why this is called dango, but this daifuku-looking dumpling is made with satsumaimo topped with anko, wrapped with mochiko dough and then cooked. It’s a specialty from Kumamoto where it gets its name from being so easy to make. If visitors pop by, all of a sudden, ikinari dango is so simple, it can be whipped up in minutes.
• Botchan Dango (Named after a fictional character): Three dango on a skewer made from red beans, matcha and egg yolk.

Hopefully, I’ve inspired you to try your hand at making dango. If I have, keep reading for recipes on basic dango and complete dango recipes!

Arare (hail stones) are made with glutinous rice (mochi kome). They can be either fried or baked, and have a crunchier texture than senbei. I like arare since they’re smaller than senbei and seem to come in more flavors as well. This particular snack, Tsuna Age Arare, is tare, “dressing” flavor.

Bon Chi Corporation is the manufacturer of today’s snack and they make all manner of senbei and arare.

Packaging

Great packaging for this snack. The green is appealing as is the bold kanji and equally bold romanji. The contrast in colors and reflective textures made this bag eye-catching in a sea of other Asian snacks. The actual arare are proudly displayed on the front and the back gives a brief description of the contents: “Japanese crispy snack. Dressing and salty taste. Good quality.” I like it when I’m informed how a particular food will taste. Score: A+

Appearance

Tsuna means “rope” and Age means “fried” in Japanese, it’s a fitting description for a snack that looks like twisted bits of deep-fried rope. The matte texture is a departure from the shiny sugar and shoyu glaze many rice crakers sport. Score: B

Texture

Tsuna age arare has a truly gratifying crunch. However, the crunch quickly melts way and becomes a greasy paste. These arare are definitely different than other rice crackers; they’re really greasy and oily. The oil sticks to the back of the throat and is too cloying. It’s actually disgusting how oily these crackers are.

One of the main reasons I like Japanese snacks is because the majority of them have a light taste and texture, even in the instances they’re fried. The grease in these rice crackers is a major turn off. I keep having to clear my throat or drink hot tea to get the oil out. My hands are also greasy. Gross. This is an unexpected find in a Japanese snack and very, very unwelcome. Score: F

Flavor

Dressing? Tare? These are supposed to taste like dressing? I wasn’t expecting a Catalina salad dressing flavor, but I was expecting some sort of vinegary tang. I’ve made many tare (dressings) and they utilize vinegars, miso, sesame, ginger and shoyu. Tuna age doesn’t even come close to any of those. One of the ingredients is vinegar powder, but it’s the seventh one listed. Vegetable oil is number two on the ingredient list. Oil wins over vinegar in this round.

These lil’ nasties remind me strongly of the American snack, Bugles. They taste like greasy, deep fried corn snacks, but there’s no corn in tsuna age. So there’s vinegar, but I can’t taste it, and there’s no corn and yet I taste corn…Score: F

Verdict

I’m very unhappy with this Japanese snack. It’s disgusting and nasty. This Japanese cracker is just like many American junk foods, right down to the grease and lack of sophisticated flavor. Even prior arare, which have let me down in the flavor department are way, way better than this. I’d rather eat shoyu and sugar then these icky deep fried concoctions.

It’s not much of a secret that I love Japanese sweets, aka wagashi. In my free time, I go on the .jp and search out new wagashi to research and try. I spend hours pouring over websites and trying my hand at translating katakana.

The only thing that really gets me through the massive amounts of translating and finagling is the Japanese’s love of pictures. Thanks to many illustrative photos and videos, I’ve been able to cobble together the rudimentary beginnings of a wagashi cookbook. One of the first recipes I tried off the .jp was kimishigure.

Kimishigure is made from egg yolks (kimi), bean paste (shiro koshi an and aka koshi an) rice flour (joshinko), water (mizu) and sugar (johakuto). Simple, right? This particular wagashi is a bit tricky since it must crack open when it steams, otherwise, it just isn’t kimishigure.

Adding too much water or too much sugar will hamper the cracks from developing, resulting in uncracked kimishigure. I learned this fact the hard way. My first try of kimishigure ended not so well, as it was not cracked and was overcooked. However, the wagashi were still tasty and pretty, just not as tasty and pretty as they could have been.

Here’s a simple recipe for this elegant and tasty wagashi I found and tailored:

Kimishigure

• 1 2/3 cups shiro koshi an
• 1 cup plus 2 1/2 Tbls. aka koshi an
• 1/4 cup joshinko (non-glutinous rice flour)
• 2 egg yolks, beaten and divided into 3/4 and 1/4 portions
• food coloring, optional
• sarashian (anko powder), optional

1. Wrap the shiro koshi an in plastic wrap and microwave on high for four minutes. Or, heat over medium heat until piping hot and bubbly, making sure not to over dry or burn the an.

2. In the hot shiro an, mix in 3/4 of the egg yolks and blend well. Scoop hot shiro an and yolk mix onto a wax paper-lined cookie sheet and spread it around. Cover with a clean, damp cotton cloth to prevent drying and let cool 20 minutes.

3. After the shiro an is cooled, add the joshinko and remaining yolk. Mix well. Add the food coloring at this time if you’re using it, keeping in mind natural, light colors work best with wagashi. Traditionally, the kimishigure is not colored, but is simply rolled around in the sarashian for added effect. But go nuts. Own that kimishigure!

4. Evenly divide the anko and roll it into 15 balls. Set aside. Evenly divide the kimishigure dough and roll it into 15 balls.

5. In a clean palm, flatten the kimishigure dough into an even round. Place a ball of anko in the round and carefully wrap the anko with the round. Make sure the dough is of an even thickness around the anko center to ensure proper cracking. I shaped mine into ovals and rounds, but you can choose a more traditional route and simply make round balls.

6. Coat each ball with sarashian, if using, patting the powder lightly but firmly into the dough.

7. Line a steamer tray with a damp cotton cloth and place the kimishigure on the cloth approximately 3/4″ apart. Steam them on high for 7-10 minutes or till they crack. Do not steam them longer than 12 minutes as they’ll get tough.

Makes 15

The flavor for kimishigure is reminiscent of fortune cookies and rice pudding and is absolutely delish. The egg yolks are the only added fat in this dessert and you can control the amount of sugar of the kimishigure either in the anko (if you make your own) or in the dough, making kimishigure a healthy dessert alternative.

You can be very creative when making kimishigure or you can take the traditional route and make classic kimishigure without all the frills. If you’re daunted by the thought of “beans as dessert”, use a piece of milk or dark chocolate in the middle instead of anko and coat the outside with cocoa for a kimishigure truffle. Believe it or not, however, the flavor of the beans from the shiro an is undetectable in kimishigure and most wagashi. I’ve found lima beans make the best shiro an for kimishigure since they taste more buttery than beany.

Give this traditional wagashi a whirl in your kitchen and let me know how yours turn out!

Difficulty:Moderate | Time:50 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

Anko is a building block in Japanese desserts, wagashi. Without anko, there wouldn’t be the profusion and variety of wagashi which exist today. Anko is made from red azuki beans which have been carefully boiled down to a chunky jam and is then sweetened. This whole bean variety of anko is known as tsubu or tsubushi-an.

Tsubu-an is used as filling in wagashi, a dessert topping, and as a sweet soup, zenzai. White beans are also used in creating anko. Shiro an is white anko, and is usually made from either lima or navy beans.

Anko also comes in different textures, one of which is koshi-an. Koshi an is a refined, smooth bean paste. Koshi-an is made from either azuki or white beans, which have been pulped and then strained to a satiny texture. Sugar syrup is then added to sweeten the paste. White beans are most commonly turned into koshi an rather than into tsubu an.

To create delicate, beautiful wagashi known as nerikiri, a mochi mixture, gyuhi, is added to shiro koshi-an. The end result is a paste similar to marzipan and can be tinted and molded into just about any shape.

Today’s edition is all about anko and we’ll be making a batch of each anko variety: Tsubushi-an and Shiro Koshi-an. Let’s get started transforming these shriveled beans into something worthy of an emperor!

Part 1 of 3:

Part 2 of 3:

Part 3 of 3:

Shiro Koshi-an

Note: Azuki or green mung beans may also be used in koshi-an.

Tsubu-an

Note: White beans may also be used in tsubu-an.

However, kinako is absolutely delish and I add it to whatever I can- yogurt, oatmeal, ice cream, toast- whenever I can. Not only does kinako taste great, it’s high in protein and B vitamins and may be easier to digest for some people who have difficulty with peanuts (that’d be me).

Kinako has a long history as a confectionery ingredient. The Japanese have been using it to make wagashi for at least 300 years, and it’s hard to imagine Japanese sweets without kinako.

Kinako has a peanut-like flavor. Yet, it can be distinguished from peanut powder by its lack of bitterness- which peanuts sometimes have- and by its subtle flavor and sweetness- which is a notch above peanuts. Why wouldn’t I pick up a candy that has this tasty additive as the main ingredient?

The sanontou in the name of this sweet refers to Japanese brown sugar and the kinako, is -duh- kinako, while the nejiru refers to the treat’s appearance, i.e. twists. Thus: Brown sugar kinako twists, yum!

The packaging is meh, but the smiley logo on the bag seems to be privy to some knowledge that I, as of yet, am not. I’ll know your secrets yet, smiling product mascot!

These wagashi look tempting as a solid manifestation of kianko delight. However, to the uninitiated, this wagashi may not be too alluring, since it does resemble dried up turds. But, if you want to enjoy Japanese treats, I urge you to overcome any discouraging visuals you may encounter.

The first bite has me hooked: It’s my dream come true of a hearty rendition of this nutty powder. Each piece is a chewy bit of kinako heaven; not too chewy, though, and not too soft, just enough to make your mouth work to earn this glorious treat.

Even though sugar and corn syrup are the only other ingredients backing up the star of this show- kinako- there’s a perfect balance between sweet and nutty. The texture and taste of this wagashi are in harmony, making Sanontou Kinakonejiri a must try for any kinako fan or for anyone who likes subtle nutty flavors.

Texture: Flavor: Appearance: Packaging:

Sanontou Kinakonejiru gets an overall .

Wagashi, as denoted by the wa-, are the traditional sweets of Japan which are painstakingly handcrafted with the finest ingredients. They include daifuku, dango, and botamochi/ ohagi. Many wagshi are incredibly sweet and are used as accompaniments to the Japanese tea ceremony. The sugary sweetness offsets the bitterness of the green tea, creating a perfect balance of the two.

Placed slightly below wagashi- though some may argue that they should be level with wagashi- are yōgashi. Yōgashi are sweets and treats of Japan that have been strongly influenced by the West. Nama (raw) cheesecake and an doughnuts (soooo good) are great examples of how the West has influenced Japanese treats. Yōgashi tend to be lighter and less sugary than their Western counterparts.

At the bottom of the Okashi Hierarchy are those snacks known as dagashi. Dagashi have an analog in American penny candy. While Western penny candy (Bull’s Eyes, root beer barrels, Now or Laters TM, etc.) are candy in the strictest sense of the word, dagashi can be both candy and baked/ fried treats. And just like our rapidly dwindling soda fountains and dedicated candy stores, dagashi stores are going the way of the dodo.

Dagashi are still available today, however, but the environments, candy stores called Dagashiya , that spawned these candies are no longer as prevalent as they used to be. Dagashi are still sold in Dagashiya, but they’re also sold in super markets, convenience stores, and kiosks.

Another fun fact about dagashi is the way they’re packaged. Sometimes they come with toys or puzzles, sometimes it’s a surprise as to what you’ll get, and sometimes they’re sold in variety packs. The one thing all dagashi have in common is their price point (cheap) and quality (not so high).

Maruisuzuki is a small company who makes dagashi. Besides the big names of Morinaga, Glico, and Meiji, there are smaller folks who manufacture okashi. Many local, independent shops and companies like Maruisuzuki, create their own non-mainstream treats. Pansy is a dagshi I discovered at the L.A. Mitsuwa.

I’ve found one other snack with properties similar to Pansy: Umai Bo. Pansy, however, isn’t a giant stick and is covered in sugar, unlike Umai Bo.

Sanshikisumire is the Japanese word for pansy, but sanshikisumire isn’t anywhere on the packaging. Perhaps this treat was named after the flower because of its tricolor palette: san= three, shiki= color, sumire= voilet.

The packaging is apropos for Pansy since it showcases the glittering puffs nicely. The large black kanji complement the pink, yellow and green of the dagashi.

Biting into one of the these colorful puffs is akin to biting into a sugar coated foam packing peanut, except not as dense. The internal structure of these heavy looking sugar bombs is filled with air pockets. The air pockets would give the snack a lighter feel if the dough itself wasn’t so chewy. Pansy are lighter than styrofoam but not by much.

The flavor is all about the sugar at first; it almost made me gag, it was so sweet. Actually, there’s a bit of salt in that sweet, which comes as a surprise. Then as I worked it down, there was a strange, buttery after-taste. Looking at the ingredients, I don’t find butter, but I do find corn. Corn and rice and corn syrup.

After eating a handful of Pansy, I find that there’s something very familiar about this snack. Trying to figure why this Japanese snacks is giving me savory déjà vu vu, I eat another two. Then I figure out what’ s causing the sensation: Pansy reminds me of a cross between cheese puffs and Fruit LoopsTM but without the cheese or the fruit!

They also make me think that this is a snack much like our American circus peanuts. Just like that sickening sweet candy treat of yore, eating three Pansy is satisfying, five or more is sickening, and ten on up is cause for emergency dental work and a stomach pump.

After splitting the rest of the bag between friends, all that’s left is a pile of salty sugar and a stomach ache. I don’t have any regrets eating Pansy, and I, in fact, enjoyed ‘em. However, the next time I purchase a bag of Pansy won’t be for a long time and I’ll make sure I have helpers on hand to assist in its “disposal”.

I recommend Pansy for people who like karinto or people who like Fruit LoopsTM and CheetosTM. This is good stuff and a great example of dagashi!

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Pansy gets a overall.

Photo © 2007 TheAnimeBlog.com

Fish cake, aka fish sausage, is called kamaboko. I like kamaboko. I think it’s great in soup, tempura, noddles, or by itself. I’m a big fan of cheese too; the stinkier and older the better. However, cheese kamaboko doesn’t sound too appealing. I’ve experienced an interesting range of fish products in my life (fish ham was…interesting) and my cheese intake has been varied, but never have I seen cheese fish cakes.

At a quick glance, there’s nothing too outré about the packaging. Kanji aside, the packaging could belong to any other processed meat/ cheese stix at a local Quickie Mart. In fact when I first spied it in the store, my eyes did an automatic pass over of it. I don’t buy that kinda crap so it doesn’t even register. But at second glance, yes, the romanji says “cheese kamaboko” and I do make exceptions to the no-crap-purchase rule.

The sticks are kinda heavy. I payed about $3.50 for the bag and it seems like I got my money worth in the form of four sticks. At the gas station one “normal” cheese stick is about $1.00. These chÄ«kama, as they’re known in Japan, are also sold in convenience stores just as their nitrate heavy counterparts are.

Photo © 2007 TheAnimeBlog.com

Unwrapping a chÄ«kama involves squeezing it out; an act which doesn’t endear it to me. Thus far, it doesn’t smell like fish, which is a plus. I have to tell myself that taking the first bite of this stuff is like tearing off a band aid; do it quick and get it over with. Ok. Weird. It tastes like any other kamaboko I’ve ever eaten , which is to say: it’s firm, it has a sweetish flavor and it isn’t overwhelmingly fishy.

But, there are flavor bursts of whipped cheese interspersed throughout the stick. They’re like cheesy land mines that detonate in my mouth with little or no warning. This snack reminds me of the cheese hot dogs of my youth but instead of mystery meat processed ten ways to hell, it’s cod and “cheese” that’s been processed ten ways to hell.

Although the fish flavor doesn’t smack you down, it’s still there and I’m not a fan of these two together. If this had been your average kamaboko, I think I would’ve really enjoyed this snack, but then again, it wouldn’t even be this snack.

The cheese and kamaboko don’t do it for me. There’s a dichotomy of flavors that are so at odds, in my opinion, that while I’m not vomiting out my ears, my taste buds are confused and huddling in a corner, not sure what to make of it all. Some East-West snack co-productions are great: Custard filled mochi are excellent as I’ve heard the mochi ice cream are as well. This was not one of those successes. To be fair, I would actually recommend trying this snack just for the sake of trying something far outside the realm of “That’s a good idea.” For those who like the unusual, I recommend chÄ«kama to you as well. Western cheese lovers, I advise you not to sample this snack., unless you’re a fan of Cheez Whiz™ and fish.

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Giving Cheese Kamaboko an overall:

Senbei are a variety of rice cracker native to Japan and well loved by the populace. They’re the snack of choice when light munching is in order and are offered to guests as a matter of course. However, senbei aren’t the only rice cracker in Japan. There’re two other varieties of rice cracker which also fall under that category: okaki and arare.

Okaki and arare are basically processed the same way as senbei and use the same ingredients with one exception; Okaki and arare use glutinous rice (mochi goma) and senbei use non-glutinous rice. Also, traditionally, senbei are shaped in large flat circles while arare are smaller and and more spherical (I believe cracker nuts would fall into this category). The word “arare” literally means “hailstone”.

Not all rice crackers are savory. Aside from the frequently used nori (seaweed) and soy sauce, sweet varieties are also produced. I’ve had a few mixes that are exceptional in this regard.

Senbei have been around as a snack in Japan for quite some time. They’ve traditionally been grilled (and still are) and served hot and fresh on the spot by street vendors. You just can’t get that kind of snack service here in the US.

Kuromame okaki (black soybean rice cracker) is one of my latest finds and I finally have
enough time to review ‘em.

The bag is in 100% Japanese and is average in terms of packaging. The only way I knew what these crackers were was from the romanji on the back and the fact that Chikashi recommended them.

After eating a hefty handful, I’m not too impressed with this particular senbei. In fact, I hate to say this but, once you’ve had the basic varieties of rice crackers, you’ve had ‘em all. Kuromame okaki taste just like other okaki and senbei, except for the sliced black soybeans liberally dispersed in the cracker.

The soybeans offer an interesting, nutty texture but nothing else. I can’t even really taste them and that’s disappointing since I love soybeans

I haven’t eaten senbei, okaki, and arare simultaneously to compare them, but it seems to me that this okaki has a crisper, lighter taste. Aside from that, these crackers are almost bland, and that’s OK. However, I’m on a quest for an exceptional sembei that suits my palette and these guys aren’t doing it.

For those utterly unfamiliar with Japanese crackers and have no idea what I’m talking about:

Rice crackers overall, have a light crisp texture with a very slight, sweet taste from the rice flour. They’re usually coated in a sweet-ish soy sauce and flavored with seaweed. There are other varieties, the most notable, to me, being a Tokyo style senbei mix which is a very colorful, sweeter senbei mix that’s deep fried (soooo good!)

Kuromame okaki is good but not at all exceptional. It’s average as a senbei mix, crispier and more textured than most, and while I’d eat ‘em again as a snack if offered, I wouldn’t buy kuromame okaki again. I’m actually disappointed with most senbei because so many seem to fall short in the creative category. However, for that very reason, I’m going to go through as many interesting senbei mixes as humanly possible in order to find the best out there to share with you. (poor me)

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