Taiyaki, literally, “grilled sea bream”, is a wheat batter-based confection, much like pancakes and waffles, filled with bean jam (anko) and grilled in a fish-shaped iron. The result is a slightly crispy sea bream-shaped goodie perfect for on-the-go munching.

If you plan on making taiyaki, you’ll need a taiyaki-ki (taiyaki mold). But if you’re simply after the flavor of taiyaki, you can also make silver dollar size cakes with the batter and fill them with anko. This confection is called dorayaki (literally, “grilled gong”, in allusion to their round shape).

I wanted a more crisp bread for my taiyaki and have tweaked a krumkake recipe I found online. This recipe yields a firm, light crust that’s not too sweet.

Taiyaki

• 1 1/4 cup flour
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 2 1/2 Tbs. cornstarch
• 3 Tbs. water
• 3 large eggs, room temperature
• 2 Tbs. honey (optional)
• 1 1/2 cups anko, room temperature

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and cornstarch. Set aside.

Beat together the eggs, honey, if using, and sugar till frothy and to it add the flour mixture and water. Whip till smooth.

Preheat a taiyaki-ki and brush it lightly with oil. Pour in a small amount of batter to the preheated pan, add a tablespoon of anko and more batter as necessary to fill in the details. Close and latch the pan.

Turn the heat to medium low and cook about 30 seconds then turn the pan over. Heat evenly for a minute and turn again. Repeat. The taiyaki are done when you can easily open the iron and the taiyaki are a golden brown, about 4 minutes. Serve immediately.

Makes 12 Taiyaki

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 30 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Easy

The Japanese use fillings other than anko for taiyaki. Chocolate, custard and even savory fillings are also popular additives. Use whatever you like; make it your okonomi-taiyaki!

You can make dorayaki with this recipe and add more honey to up the flavor and make it more moist. If you want, cut shapes from the dorayaki with a cookie cutter while the cakes are still warm. You can then sandwich anko between them.

There’s this weird phenomena in Japan that, for whatever reason, men can’t be seen eating unsanctioned “female” candy. They can’t grab a box of Milk Pocky or Strawberry YamYam and still be thought manly and mature. This is at least the impression I get from candy makers whenever I see “Men’s Pocky” or “Men’s Bitter Chocolate”. What the heck? Can’t men in Japan get their sugar on? Apparently, Japanese men can only eat candy that’s not too sweet nor too girlish. And the packaging must be manly and mature. Once again, this is my impression, but when I asked a male Japanese friend if my impression was correct, he said, “Usually.”

Another friend went back to Japan and brought me back this Kizami Cacao, by Morinaga. I like Morinaga. They’re not terribly inventive, but they do chocolate fairly well. So I wasn’t unhappy with my pal’s choice of native candy, he was after all, male, and men must buy candy approved by the Manly Board of Japan…

Packaging

The packaging is elegant, masculine even. The black and brown gradient background is set off by the minimal kanji and Engrish: “KIZAMI-CACAO is a real and rich taste bitter chocolate.” The product is prominently displayed life-sized in a corner. It’s a very attractive box, but the spiffy packaging doesn’t stop there. The inside is set up so the individually-wrapped chocalate wafers are handily displayed. Niiiiccce. Score: A+

Appearance

The chocolates are about an inch and a half long by one inch wide. Some manner of topping is sprinkled just below the surface of the chocolate. It’s an elegant touch. Score: A

Texture

These chocolates are super smooth without a lot of greasy mouth feel some chocolates have. The sprinkled bits are hard to identify at first but I discover they’re bits of even darker chocolate embedded within. They give Kizami some added crispness. The chocolates are already a tad crisp due to their wafer-thinness. Score: A

Flavor

Rich, but not cloying is the first impression I get from Kizami Cacao, then I’m socked with bitterness. They weren’t kidding when they labeled this stuff bitter chocolate. 63% cocoa equals really dark chocolate. Dark chocolate must have at least 35% cocoa solids to be dark and Kizami’s got almost double that. The touch of sweetness that makes this stuff “candy” finally makes an appearance and shows the bitterness to the door. My poor tongue is still numb from the first bitter chocolate I’ve eaten as I unwrap a second piece. As a dark chocolate, this is a decent candy, but it’s almost too bitter to be enjoyable. Remember, if you’re a man, you can’t enjoy your chocolate! Score: B

Verdict

Kizami Cacao is definitely a chocolate marketed towards men, but there’s no reason anyone can’t savor the bitter taste of quality chocolate. If they like really, bitter, tongue numbing chocolate, that is.

This recipe is the easiest dango to make. It’s simple, uses the least ingredients and can be used in soups or as a dessert.

Easy Dango

• 1 cup mochiko
• 1/4 boiling water

Fill a medium size saucepan with water and set it to boil.

Slowly add a small amount of the boiling water to the mochiko and carefully knead the mochiko dough together with your hands. Keep slowly adding the water until the dough is the consistency of an earlobe. Form the dough into small balls and add them to the boiling water. If using the dango in soup, add them to the simmering soup.

Cook the dango for 8 minutes or until they float to the surface. If making the dango in water, use a slotted spoon to remove the dango and then toast ‘em or top them with your choice of sauces.

Makes 10 dumplings

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 15 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

This basic dango recipe is a cinch to make if you have mochiko and joshinko. I find this particular combination of mochiko (glutinous rice flour) and joshinko (non-glutinous rice flour) yields dango with just the right amount of gooieness to chew on and enough firmness for the dango to hold their shape. These dango can be topped with a wide variety of sauces, from mocha to mitarashi. Use these blank slates as tasty canvases for your dango experimentation!

Basic Dango

• 1 cup mochiko
• 2 Tbls. joshinko
• 1/3 cup boiling water

Whisk together the rice flours till they’re well blended.

Slowly add the boiling water a little at a time to the flours, mix it as much as possible with a fork and then knead it with your hands, being careful not to burn yourself. *Note: Thoroughly mixing the mochiko and the water together with a fork or spoon does not work, and will give zero indication as to whether the correct amount of water is being added.

Slowly add more water until the dough is “soft as an earlobe”.

Form the dango into 1 inch balls and place them 1/2 inch apart on a lightly greased steamer tray. Steam on high for 7 minutes. Let the dango cool and thread 3-4 dango onto a skewer.

Either serve immediately or toast the dango. To toast the dango, heat an oven to broil and place the skewered dango in the pre-heated oven. Keep a close eye on the dango and remove them once they’re a golden brown. Top them with sauces and serve hot.

Makes 6-8 skewers

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 20 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

Here’s a popular dumpling recipe made using basic dango topped with a sweet soy-based sauce.

Mitarashi Dango

• 1 recipe Basic Dango

• 1/2 cup light soy sauce (dark may be used as well)
• 4 Tbls. mirin
• 4 Tbls. dashi stock
• 1/2 cup white or brown sugar
• 1 Tbls. katakuriko (potato starch) or cornstarch, (optional)

Make the dango as per the Basic Dango recipe. While dango are steaming, make the sauce.

Make the sauce by mixing the the soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar together in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and then simmer for two minutes until the sugar dissolves. You may thicken the sauce by reducing it, but the mitrashi may caramelize. This method produces an intense flavor and a very shiny mitarashi.

If reducing isn’t your preferential way of thickening, then dissolve the starch in a tablespoon of water. Add the starch water to the simmering sauce and stir it in quickly. Cook and stir the sauce over low heat until the sauce thickens to your taste. Set aside.

Toast the steamed dango and top them with the mitarashi sauce. Serve immediately.

Makes 8 skewers

Difficulty: Easy | Time: 25 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

This dango is a seasonal wagashi eaten during the cherry blossom season. Enjoy hanami dango on your next nature outing and savor a bit of hanami in your own picnic basket!

Hanami Dango

The recipe is off site in my article for Sauce’s March issue. Check it out on the right sidebar!

• Note: After the dango are steamed, the green dango (yomogi or matcha) will start to turn a very dark green, and in the case of yomogi, almost black. This is perfectly normal, but doesn’t look too appealing after an hour or so. To cut back on the oxidation process, use less yomogi or switch to matcha. Use less matcha for a pastel mint color. But less matcha also means less flavor so if you’re keen on green tea and are presenting the dango to friends, try and serve the dango straight from the steamer, or keep them warm till they’re ready to be eaten to delay the oxidation.

Makes 10 skewers

Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 1 hour | Ingredient Availability: Difficult

I was inspired to create a recipe for this famous dango by the many fans who were curious about it. Botchan dango is a regional dango from Matsuyama which was made famous by Soseki Natsume’s novel, “Botchan“. This dango is a sanshoku dango (three colored dango) made from bean paste (an), egg yolk (kimi) and green tea powder (matcha) and filled with white bean paste (shiro an). I used a microwave to help make the recipe, but you can also heat the ingredients on a stove top. This is a difficult recipe but well worth the effort!

Botchan Dango

Filling

• 1/2 cup shiro an
• 1 Tbls. mochiko

An Dango

• 1/4 cup plus 1 Tbls. mochiko
• 1 Tbls. joshinko
• 1/4 cup anko (tsubu or koshi)
• 2 Tbls. sugar
• scant amount hot water

Kimi Dango

• 2 egg yolks, beaten
• 2 Tbls. boiling water
• 2 Tbls. sugar
• 1/4 cup plus Tbls. mochiko
• 2 Tbls. sugar
• scant amount hot water

Matcha Dango

• 1 tsp. matcha
• 1/4 cup plus 2 Tbls. mochiko
• 3 Tbls. joshinko
• 3 Tbls. sugar
• 1 1/2 tbls. water
• scant amount hot water

• sugar water for smoothing

Make the filling by mixing together the shiro an and the mochiko. Spread the shiro an mixture onto a clean cotton cloth and steam it on high for 10 minutes. Allow the mixture to cool and form the dough into 18 equal sized balls. Cover the balls with plastic wrap and set them aside.

An
Make the an dango by mixing together the mochiko and joshinko and set aside.

Mix together the sugar and anko and heat the mix until it starts to bubble, about 30 seconds in the microwave.

Add the hot anko to the flours and knead it in well. Depending on evaporation and type of anko used, you may have to add some water to make the dough more pliable. Add hot water a few drops at a time to the dough until it’s soft enough to easily form into balls. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and set aside.

Kimi
Make the kimi dango by whisking together the mochiko and joshinko and set aside.

Add the sugar to the boiling water and stir to dissolve. Add the egg yolks to the hot sugar water and heat until the mixture thickens. In the microwave, heat the egg mix for 5 second intervals, then stir it well. Heat then stir. Repeat. The mixture should be a creamy yellow, slightly thick and frothy.

Add the cooked yolks to the flours. Knead the mixture well, and add enough water to create a supple, but not sticky, dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and set aside.

Matcha
Make the matcha dango by whisking the flours and matcha together.

Dissolve the sugar in the water and heat until it barely boils, about 30 seconds in the microwave. Add the boiling sugar water to the flours and carefully knead the dough well, adding enough water to make a supple dough .

Assembling the Botchan Dango
Divide the an dough into 6 equal size balls. Cover them to prevent drying and repeat with the kimi and matcha doughs. There should be 18 balls in total; 6 an, 6 kimi and 6 matcha.

Take a ball of the an dough and flatten it in a slightly dampened, clean palm. Place a ball of shiro an dough in the center of the an round and carefully cover the shiro an with the an dough. Do not overstretch the dough. Make sure it’s an even thickness throughout. Smooth the ball, using a dab of sugar water if needed.

Repeat with the rest of the an dough. Cover to prevent drying and repeat with the kimi and an balls.

Skewer the finished balls in order of an, kimi and matcha. Steam on high for 10-12 minutes. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 skewers

Difficulty: Difficult | Time: 1 hour 30 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Difficult

I love malted milk balls and I love dango. My insane desire to see the two merged was what fired the ol’ noogin to craft this recipe. It’s a great example of how creative you can be with dango!

Inside Out Malted Milk Dango

• 3/4 cup mochiko
• 3 Tbls. joshinko
• 3 Tbls. baking cocoa
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1 Tbls. instant milk powder
• 1/4 boiling water
• 1/4 cup malt powder (not malted milk*)
• 3 Tbls. sugar
• 1/4 water

Mix together the mochiko, joshinko, cocoa and dry milk.

Add the sugar to the boiling water and stir to dissolve it. Slowly add the hot sugar water to the dry ingredients a little at a time. Knead the dough and add more water as necessary to create a supple, but not mushy, dough.

Roll the dough into 1 inch balls. Place the balls 1/2 apart on a steam tray and steam them on high for 7 minutes.

While the balls are cooling, make the sauce by mixing together the malt, sugar and water. Heat the mixture on low heat, stirring constantly. Let the sauce reduce to desired thickness and set aside.

Skewer the chocolate dango, three per stick. Top the dango with the malt sauce and serve immediately.

Makes 7 skewers.

Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 30 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

*I used malt flour, which is malt powder without the added milk or sugar. Malted milk powder, which already contains sugar plus milk and is readily available at supermarkets, may be used. Omit the sugar and cook till thickened to your taste.

There’s an incredible variety of sweet dessert-style dango, which makes the amount of savory varieties pale in comparison. Sweet dango can be filled, topped or crafted with all manner of traditional Japanese dessert (wagashi) foodstuffs. A few of these traditional ingredients include anko (also known as an), goma (black sesame) and kinako (roasted soybean flour).

However, dango aren’t limited to just Japanese ingredients. You can get creative like I did and create your own toppings for dango; it’s your wagashi- make whatever you want with it!

If you’ve ever considered making your own dango, either with traditional or personal ingredients, this is your lucky day! Today we’ll explore the possibilities with dango and look at the many varieties of the dumplings. Get your steamers ready guys, there’s more to dango than you think!

First, let’s break down the different ways of making dango, including cooking methods, ingredients, and end with varieties.

Cooking

Technically, all dango are cooked in some manner. There are many ways to prepare and cook dango, varying in degrees of simplicity and difficulty.

Boiling
The easiest way to make dango is:

• Mix together mochiko and water
• Make mochiko dough into balls
• Drop balls in boiling water, soup or other liquid
• Cook for about fifteen minutes

Steaming
The next step up from boiling would be:

• Form the mochiko dough into balls
• Steam the dango
• Skewer the balls (optional)
• Roast the dango (optional)

Twice Cooked
Higher up on the dango difficulty scale is what I call twice-cooked dango. To make this dango:

• Reduce dango batter from a viscous liquid to a solid dough
• Form dough into balls
• Thread balls on skewers and steam

Shiro An Method
This is a complex method of making dango, but will yield unique dumplings with an interesting flavor and texture:

• Mix mochiko with shiro koshian
• Steam mixture and work sugar into mix
• Add additional ingredients
• Form into balls and skewer

Flours

Mochiko, glutinous rice flour, is what gives dango their super chewy, gooey texture. Shiratamako, another glutinous rice flour, is also used to make dango. A dango recipe made entirely from mochiko or shiratamako will result in a very soft dango.

Shiratamako is lumpy, and must be dissolved in water or ground before using in a recipe. I’ve heard mochiko can be used interchangeably with shiratamako with little to no adverse results. I personally have used mochiko in place of shiratamako and haven’t noticed the difference. Mochiko is also waaaay cheaper than shiratamako, especially if it’s bought under the name “sweet rice flour”.

Joshinko, non-glutinous rice flour, can be added in varying amounts to create a firmer dango. I recommend a ratio of no more than 1:1 of mochiko to joshinko for dango which is firm but still has some gooey mouth feel. Anything above that results in a denser, less chewy, harder dango.

Liquids

Water is normally used as in making dango, and boiling water at that. However, nothing’s keeping you from substituting other liquids or semi-liquids (anko, mashed fruit, pumpkin filling, etc.) for a portion or all of the water. Fruit or vegetable juice, rose water, milk, tea, or coffee can all be added to dango to enhance the flavor and change the texture. Also, extracts and concentrated flavorings can be added to alter the flavor.

The more liquid used in dango, the softer and gooier it will be. Less water will create a firmer dango, but will also result in a drier dango. Keep in mind you want the liquids hot, unless you plan on cooking the dango ingredients together anyway. Boiling the liquids will dissolve sugars and help bind the mochiko to the other ingredients, which in turn results in smoother, less gritty dango.

Additives

Certain additives, such as powders, non-rice flours, beans, nuts and seeds can be added to the dough, but it’s important to keep in mind how they’ll effect the texture of the finished dango. Small amounts of powdered spices, espresso powder, cocoa, matcha and powdered milk can be added to the rice flour(s) or dissolved in the water/ juice to create flavored dough. Experimentation with amounts is important in finding a recipe that works with your preferred texture and flavorings.

Toppings

After the dango are steamed and/or toasted, it’s your choice what you top them with, if at all. I personally am a huge fan of anko and goma an (black sesame seed paste) on my plain toasted dango. Drowning freshly browned dango in a sea of beans and sesame seeds is more yummy than it sounds. It’s up to you, though, to choose what to cover your dango with.

Some traditional ideas are:

• Tsubu An: Chunky bean paste
• Koshi An: Smooth bean paste
• Shiro An: White bean paste
• Goma An: Black sesame paste
• Kurumi: Walnut powder
• Kuri: Chestnut powder or paste
• Kinako: Roasted soy bean flour
• Mitarashi: Sauce similar to teriyaki
• Matcha An: Green tea paste
• Zunda: Dango topped with slightly sweetened green soybean paste
• Nori: Savory dango wrapped in seaweed

Dango Varities

Dango are named after their toppings, their added ingredients to the dough and their fillings. The above are a sampling of dango named after toppings (goma dango, an dango) but there are also dango named after what’s in the dough and the finished dango or how they’re cooked:

• Matcha Dango: Green tea powder flavored dango
• Kibi dango: Dango made with millet starch
• Yomogi/ Kusa Dango: Mugwort flavored dumplings (kusa dango were originally flavored with cudweed)
• Gomasuri Dango: Lil’ dumplings filled with black sesame paste
• Zunda dango: Dango filled with green soybean paste
• Sasa Dango: Dumplings filled with anko and steamed in bamboo leaves
• Kushi Dango: Skewered dumplings
• Sanshoku Dango (Three Color Dumplings: Sanshoku (three colors): Dumplings made with three colors. Contrary to popular belief, sanshoku dango does not refer to a specific variety. Any dango with three colors is sanshoku dango, including hanami and botchan dango.

Dango are also named for festivals and even fictional characters!

• Hanami Dango (Flower Viewing Dumplings): Three dango on a skewer. Colors are pink (food coloring), white

(plain) and green (matcha, yomogi or food coloring). Hanami dango are eaten during cherry blossom season.

• Tsukimi Dango (Moon Viewing Dumplings): Non-skewered filled or plain dumplings. Usually presented as a pyramid shaped pile of dumplings, tsukimi dango are eaten during the moon viewing festival. I’ve seen ornate tsukimi dango shaped like usagi (bunnies!) as a homage to the mochi pounding rabbit in the moon.
• Ikinari Dango (All of a Sudden Dango): Don’t know why this is called dango, but this daifuku-looking dumpling is made with satsumaimo topped with anko, wrapped with mochiko dough and then cooked. It’s a specialty from Kumamoto where it gets its name from being so easy to make. If visitors pop by, all of a sudden, ikinari dango is so simple, it can be whipped up in minutes.
• Botchan Dango (Named after a fictional character): Three dango on a skewer made from red beans, matcha and egg yolk.

Hopefully, I’ve inspired you to try your hand at making dango. If I have, keep reading for recipes on basic dango and complete dango recipes!

On Valentine’s Day in Japan, the women give all the men in their lives chocolate (choco- チョコ). If the recipient is a co-worker, or someone the woman sees casually, she gives him giri choco (obligation chocolate). Giri choco is cheap and can be bought at stores everywhere.

The man a woman has special feelings for receives honmei choco (prospective winner chocolate). Honmei choco is a superior variety of chocolate and can either be bought or handmade. Men who get handmade food stuffs from a woman know where they stand in her affections: at the top!

Female friends also get chocolate in the way of tomo choco (friend chocolate), but the main recipients of Valentine’s Day goodies are the men. However, the men don’t return the favor of giving chocolate or gifts to their lady friends on this day; they do that on White Day (March 14th).

This way of celebrating Valentine’s Day won’t fly here in America, but I’ve noticed many anime fans find this practice intriguing. Some want to make honmei choco at home to give to their sweeties or they want to give giri choco to their classmates and coworkers. I say make a compromise and celebrate the day in a unique way with a Japanese flair.

If you’d like to give your special someone, male or female, something inspired by the Japanese way of celebrating Valentine’s Day, make them a Valentine’s Day bento. Or craft a handmade Valentine with と書いたり (From Your Valentine) or と書いたりもする。(Be My Valentine) written on it. For some Japanese inspired sweets make them a selection of goodies, either yogashi, wagashi or both, and put them in a simple, elegant heart-shaped box.

There’s no need to leave the ladies out of Valentine’s Day fellas, even if you want to celebrate it Japanese-style. Make her something nice in the way of honmei choco, and you’ll be the winner!

Need some ideas for some honmei goodies? Here’s a recipe sure to please the mochi fan in your life!

Chocolate-Covered Cherry Daifuku

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 cups mochiko
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 1 Tbl. plus 1 tsp corn syrup
• 1 tsp. almond extract
• red food coloring
• potato, corn or wheat starch for dusting
• 10 maraschino cherries, rinsed and patted dry
• 1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
• 2 squares unsweetened chocolate, minced

Directions

1. In a microwave-safe bowl, heat chocolate chips and unsweetened chocolate on high in the microwave for 30 seconds. Stir the mixture and return to microwave for an additional 30 seconds. Mix again. Repeat the steps until the chocolate is melted.
2. Dip the cherries in the melted chocolate and coat them well. Drop them onto a plate lined with wax paper and put them in the freezer for 20 minutes.
3. After the cherries have been in the freezer for 15 minutes, make the mochi by whisking together the mochiko, sugar, water, 1 Tbl. corn syrup and extract. Remove 1/2 cup of the mochiko mixture and tint it a desired shade of red or pink with the food coloring. Set aside.
4. Dust a clean work surface liberally with starch. Keep a bowl filled with starch handy for dusting your hands and any utensils used. Place the tsp. of corn syrup in a small bowl and keep it nearby.
5. In a medium saucepan, cook the uncolored mochiko mixture over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan. Spoon some of the cooked mochi onto the dusted work surface. With either a well dusted rolling pin or with well dusted hands, carefully roll or pat the hot mochi to 1/4 to 1/2 inch thickness, depending on your preference. Cut out circles two and half times as big as the chocolate cherries.
6. Place a well chilled chocolate cherry in the center of each of the mochi circles. Quickly wrap the mochi circle around the cherry, pinching the bottom to seal it. If you’ve having problems smoothing or sealing the bottom, use a tiny bit of warm water to seal up the mochi. Place the finished mochi on plate dusted with starch. If the mochi cools too much when you’re working with it, heat it in the microwave for 20-30 seconds.
7. For the hearts, repeat Step 5 with the pink mochi, but cut out hearts instead of circles.
8. To decorate the mochi, you can:

• Attach the hearts to the finished mochi with a dab of corn syrup.
• Coat the finished mochi in the leftover chocolate.
• Wrap some cherries in pink mochi and make white hearts for contrast.
• Drizzle some chocolate over the finished mochi.
• Sprinkle colored sugar onto the warm mochi then form the balls.

Makes 10 Bon Bon-sized Daifuku

I’ve wanted to try the pumpkin Pocky ever since I discovered it on the Pocky Gallery two years ago. I silently craved to try this Pocky, only voicing my desire twice. But apparently, someone was listening, and that someone was David. He found “Lovely Halloween” at our local Chinese grocery, of all places. The expiration date isn’t for another year, so I’m not minding this late Halloween treat!

Those unfamiliar with Pocky need only know this: Pocky are cracker sticks dipped in a wide variety of sweet flavorings. These coatings range from authentic Japanese flavors such as kinako, to “odd” flavors such as honeydew, to international ones such as chocolate mousse.

There’s nothing exceptionally spectacular about Pocky besides the interesting variety it comes in. The Decorer varieties are a real treat, however, as this line of Pocky is loaded with thick layers of creamy goodness, and look like cupcakes on sticks.

Trying each variety to taste how well Glico captured the essence of the flavor is the real reason I eat Pocky. Plus the crunch from the cookie/ cracker gives me my texture fix.

Packaging

What clever marketing! Glico took flavors already in their Pocky lineup, and with some creative packaging, transformed them into seasonal sellers! “Lovely Halloween” is what this variety pack was dubbed. The graphics are attractive and beautifully rendered with appealing shades. The strawberry Pocky sports an ichigo jack o’ lantern wearing a witch’s hat, the milk Pocky has a weird marshmallow-o’-lantern-ghost thing, and the pumpkin displays a standard American jack o’ lantern.

Pumpkins, stars, and bats adorn the box on all sides. On the back, there’s even an instant costume in the way of an ichigo o’ lantern mask for kids. Kawaii! Score: A

Appearance

Most Pocky look underwhelming; they resemble edible sparklers or incense. The Decorer (which this particular line-up isn’t) are impressive looking things.

Lovely Halloween is made up of pale orange, white covered, and pink coated cracker sticks. Whoop-de doo. Score: B+

Texture

Pocky has a satisfying crunch tempered by a sweet, creamy coating. They’re fun to eat on the go and are a real pleaser in the texture department. Score: A

Flavor

Pumpkin: What a gyp! Here I was all set to experience pumpkin goodness, but all I got was caramel! Not even kabocha, caramel. Weak. I keep waiting for some hint of pumpkin, or even pumpkin pie spice, but all that’s coming through is caramel. It’s not an unpleasant flavor, but it sure as hell isn’t pumpkin.

Why advertise this as pumpkin then??! There’s a frick’n jack o’ lantern on the box with the word “pumpkin” over it. Am I wrong to expect pumpkin? Maybe the makers of pumpkin Pocky believe American pumpkins (especially Halloween pumpkins) taste like caramel. I can’t think of a better reason for why I was so painfully cheated outta actual pumpkin flavor!!!

However, as a flavor in itself, the caramel for “pumpkin” is smooth without a bite and is not overly sweet. It’s actually tasty, but the bitterness of my pumpkin let-down makes the caramel taste like ashes in my mouth. Score: B

Milk: “Milk” reminds me of “Werther’s” toffee for some reason. It’s good and has a rich creamy taste. Score: A

Strawberry: Strawberry has a full, creamy taste and tastes like a strawberry milkshake. Strawberry milkshakes on sticks; the way of the future? Score: A

Verdict

The packaging for this variety pack makes this a visually appealing product, and at $3.60 for four packs of Pocky, this is a steal. But, don’t expect to be wowed by the flavors, all of which are available as individual flavors year round. If anything, buy “Lovely Halloween” for its aesthetics and the free strawberry witch jack o’ lantern mask.

It’s not much of a secret that I love Japanese sweets, aka wagashi. In my free time, I go on the .jp and search out new wagashi to research and try. I spend hours pouring over websites and trying my hand at translating katakana.

The only thing that really gets me through the massive amounts of translating and finagling is the Japanese’s love of pictures. Thanks to many illustrative photos and videos, I’ve been able to cobble together the rudimentary beginnings of a wagashi cookbook. One of the first recipes I tried off the .jp was kimishigure.

Kimishigure is made from egg yolks (kimi), bean paste (shiro koshi an and aka koshi an) rice flour (joshinko), water (mizu) and sugar (johakuto). Simple, right? This particular wagashi is a bit tricky since it must crack open when it steams, otherwise, it just isn’t kimishigure.

Adding too much water or too much sugar will hamper the cracks from developing, resulting in uncracked kimishigure. I learned this fact the hard way. My first try of kimishigure ended not so well, as it was not cracked and was overcooked. However, the wagashi were still tasty and pretty, just not as tasty and pretty as they could have been.

Here’s a simple recipe for this elegant and tasty wagashi I found and tailored:

Kimishigure

• 1 2/3 cups shiro koshi an
• 1 cup plus 2 1/2 Tbls. aka koshi an
• 1/4 cup joshinko (non-glutinous rice flour)
• 2 egg yolks, beaten and divided into 3/4 and 1/4 portions
• food coloring, optional
• sarashian (anko powder), optional

1. Wrap the shiro koshi an in plastic wrap and microwave on high for four minutes. Or, heat over medium heat until piping hot and bubbly, making sure not to over dry or burn the an.

2. In the hot shiro an, mix in 3/4 of the egg yolks and blend well. Scoop hot shiro an and yolk mix onto a wax paper-lined cookie sheet and spread it around. Cover with a clean, damp cotton cloth to prevent drying and let cool 20 minutes.

3. After the shiro an is cooled, add the joshinko and remaining yolk. Mix well. Add the food coloring at this time if you’re using it, keeping in mind natural, light colors work best with wagashi. Traditionally, the kimishigure is not colored, but is simply rolled around in the sarashian for added effect. But go nuts. Own that kimishigure!

4. Evenly divide the anko and roll it into 15 balls. Set aside. Evenly divide the kimishigure dough and roll it into 15 balls.

5. In a clean palm, flatten the kimishigure dough into an even round. Place a ball of anko in the round and carefully wrap the anko with the round. Make sure the dough is of an even thickness around the anko center to ensure proper cracking. I shaped mine into ovals and rounds, but you can choose a more traditional route and simply make round balls.

6. Coat each ball with sarashian, if using, patting the powder lightly but firmly into the dough.

7. Line a steamer tray with a damp cotton cloth and place the kimishigure on the cloth approximately 3/4″ apart. Steam them on high for 7-10 minutes or till they crack. Do not steam them longer than 12 minutes as they’ll get tough.

Makes 15

The flavor for kimishigure is reminiscent of fortune cookies and rice pudding and is absolutely delish. The egg yolks are the only added fat in this dessert and you can control the amount of sugar of the kimishigure either in the anko (if you make your own) or in the dough, making kimishigure a healthy dessert alternative.

You can be very creative when making kimishigure or you can take the traditional route and make classic kimishigure without all the frills. If you’re daunted by the thought of “beans as dessert”, use a piece of milk or dark chocolate in the middle instead of anko and coat the outside with cocoa for a kimishigure truffle. Believe it or not, however, the flavor of the beans from the shiro an is undetectable in kimishigure and most wagashi. I’ve found lima beans make the best shiro an for kimishigure since they taste more buttery than beany.

Give this traditional wagashi a whirl in your kitchen and let me know how yours turn out!

Difficulty:Moderate | Time:50 minutes | Ingredient Availability: Moderate

Anko is a building block in Japanese desserts, wagashi. Without anko, there wouldn’t be the profusion and variety of wagashi which exist today. Anko is made from red azuki beans which have been carefully boiled down to a chunky jam and is then sweetened. This whole bean variety of anko is known as tsubu or tsubushi-an.

Tsubu-an is used as filling in wagashi, a dessert topping, and as a sweet soup, zenzai. White beans are also used in creating anko. Shiro an is white anko, and is usually made from either lima or navy beans.

Anko also comes in different textures, one of which is koshi-an. Koshi an is a refined, smooth bean paste. Koshi-an is made from either azuki or white beans, which have been pulped and then strained to a satiny texture. Sugar syrup is then added to sweeten the paste. White beans are most commonly turned into koshi an rather than into tsubu an.

To create delicate, beautiful wagashi known as nerikiri, a mochi mixture, gyuhi, is added to shiro koshi-an. The end result is a paste similar to marzipan and can be tinted and molded into just about any shape.

Today’s edition is all about anko and we’ll be making a batch of each anko variety: Tsubushi-an and Shiro Koshi-an. Let’s get started transforming these shriveled beans into something worthy of an emperor!

Part 1 of 3:

Part 2 of 3:

Part 3 of 3:

Shiro Koshi-an

Note: Azuki or green mung beans may also be used in koshi-an.

Tsubu-an

Note: White beans may also be used in tsubu-an.

The name “umebachi”, is in reference to its appearance. Umebachi is a variety of kamon. Kamon, or mon, are Japanese heraldic symbols used as family crests and as decorations for kimono. The umebachi kamon can be seen at the left and is representative of a plum blossom within a circle. When turned on end, the umebachi dagashi does look very much like the kamon. This particular dagashi brand, Maruisuzuki, likes to name and manufacture their treats in the likeness of flowers, an idea which is novel and quite inventive in execution.

Each of these treats are individually wrapped. After tearing open the wrapper I understand why; the white exterior is a candy coating and if the umebachi weren’t wrapped individually, they’d become tacky, sticky, and no longer individual. Umebachi don’t have much aroma, but there’s a hint of molasses. Hmmm, smells like molasses on the inside yet has a candy coating on the outside; interesting. I have no idea what’s in store as I take a bite.

After two crunchy, sugar coated bites, I don’t yet have a sense of what this dagashi is, only that it’s sugary and tasty. After three bites, the realization dawns on me: This is sugar coated karinto! Sweet jeezus, have you been eavesdropping on my sugary fantasies? On the outside is a generous layer of hard candy coating. The inside is made up of bits of karinto- a molasses and brown sugar wagashi made by deep frying dough and rolling it around in molten brown sugar- mixed with crisp, molasses kurosato, Japanese black sugar. Ohhhh, ssooooo freaking gooooddd! I can see the mountains of Sugar Paradise! Wait, wait, that’s a candy coma coming on, never mind.

The white outer layer is reminiscent of Jordan Almonds. It’s not too hard, and has good flavor for a candy shell. The sugar is sticking to my teeth, but if this is wrong, I don’t want to be right. I can hear the fillings in my mouth scream in protest at the gooey abuse they’re enduring. Suck it in guys, here comes one more! Bwahahahahahahahahahha! It’s a good thing these are individually wrapped or the entire bag’d be gone by now. This is like a Japanese chik-o stick, in texture if not in flavor, with its crispy outside, and sugar filling which sticks to the teeth.

This is much better than the Pansy candy this dagashi company also produces and I’m upset that I’ll need to wait nine months before I can re-purchase this treat. I bought Umebachi along with Pansy, at the LA Mitsuwa during Anime Expo this year and know I’ll have to wait for the next AX for my hookup.

Umebachi is one of the most creative, delicious and addictive Japanese snacks I’ve reviewed to date. I highly urge any and all who are able to purchase this dagashi to do so immediately, but don’t tell your dentist who tipped you off to Umebachi!

Texture: Flavor: Appearance: Packaging:

Umebachi gets an overall .

However, kinako is absolutely delish and I add it to whatever I can- yogurt, oatmeal, ice cream, toast- whenever I can. Not only does kinako taste great, it’s high in protein and B vitamins and may be easier to digest for some people who have difficulty with peanuts (that’d be me).

Kinako has a long history as a confectionery ingredient. The Japanese have been using it to make wagashi for at least 300 years, and it’s hard to imagine Japanese sweets without kinako.

Kinako has a peanut-like flavor. Yet, it can be distinguished from peanut powder by its lack of bitterness- which peanuts sometimes have- and by its subtle flavor and sweetness- which is a notch above peanuts. Why wouldn’t I pick up a candy that has this tasty additive as the main ingredient?

The sanontou in the name of this sweet refers to Japanese brown sugar and the kinako, is -duh- kinako, while the nejiru refers to the treat’s appearance, i.e. twists. Thus: Brown sugar kinako twists, yum!

The packaging is meh, but the smiley logo on the bag seems to be privy to some knowledge that I, as of yet, am not. I’ll know your secrets yet, smiling product mascot!

These wagashi look tempting as a solid manifestation of kianko delight. However, to the uninitiated, this wagashi may not be too alluring, since it does resemble dried up turds. But, if you want to enjoy Japanese treats, I urge you to overcome any discouraging visuals you may encounter.

The first bite has me hooked: It’s my dream come true of a hearty rendition of this nutty powder. Each piece is a chewy bit of kinako heaven; not too chewy, though, and not too soft, just enough to make your mouth work to earn this glorious treat.

Even though sugar and corn syrup are the only other ingredients backing up the star of this show- kinako- there’s a perfect balance between sweet and nutty. The texture and taste of this wagashi are in harmony, making Sanontou Kinakonejiri a must try for any kinako fan or for anyone who likes subtle nutty flavors.

Texture: Flavor: Appearance: Packaging:

Sanontou Kinakonejiru gets an overall .