Lolitas and their Gothic companions are invited to share their own photos and illustrations in this debut issue.

The mook (book-like magazine) is intended to be printed in “hybrid format,” including both translated text from four Japanese issues as well as new content for the English release. This content is said to include interviews with Mitsukazu Mihara and Nana Kitade as well as Japan Ai author Aimee Major Steinberger. Also included in the mook are English-language patterns for creating your own accessories, among other exciting topics.

Too excited to wait? Pre-order it from Tokyopop’s website or Amazon!

See also:
About Manga
ComiPress
Anime News Network
La Carmina

What you seek is a commission. Your first step is to select the particular item you would like to have personally crafted for you. In order to better explain the process, let’s imagine that you’ve fallen in love with this black velvet Shirley Temple one piece. But alas, even if you obtained the original, it’s been designed for pre-teen girls! Only an eight-year-old could ever fit into such a thing! You must have it re-created in your size.

pictures

Begin by gathering up as many photos of this item as you can. Luckily for us, we have both a front and back photo. But what if we could find no back photo? The rest of the garment would be a mystery. Therefore it is up to you, the consumer, to fill in any gaps in information. Shall we leave it plain? How about a large bow? Maybe even a few ruffles? The choice is yours. (Of course you can make these suggestions even if you have the photo, it is your commission.)

finding a seamstress

Step two involves finding a reputable seamstress, preferably someone who has extensive experience with Lolita fashion. Don’t worry if it takes a little time to decide on who you feel will be perfect for your project. Ask around; other Lolitas are usually eager to share their commission experiences, both good and bad.

Post your Shirley Temple photos. Once you contact (or are contacted by) a potential sewing expert, inquire as to the cost of labor, materials and the like. Request credentials, references, and photos of previous commissions. Ask what her current queue looks like, and when you can expect your piece to be finished.

Questions to ask

Inquire as to any return or refund policies.Your seamstress is most likely not making a living sewing Lolita clothing, so she may have you enter into a contract that states you will pay for the dress regardless of the final result. Ask if, after your dress is complete, might you be able to ship it back to have a fitting issue resolved? Would you have to pay extra for this service, or is it included in the overall cost? These are matters that must be settled before the commission begins, to avoid misunderstandings later.

material

When it comes to materials, you can select them yourself and ship them (if you live in the same area as your commissioner, you may be able to go shopping together). Or, you can describe a price range (the most expensive, luxurious velvet? Something durable that will not show wear over time?), and trust the seamstress to buy the fabric and lace for you. In order to know how much material will be used, you will have to be measured.

measurements

A word about measurements: accurate measurements make accurate commissions. I suggest that you visit your nearest dry cleaners, and have yourself professionally measured. This clears up any misconceptions as to where to place the measuring tape, and also reduces the desire to cheat. Do not tell yourself “I should order it a bit small, because I’m planning on losing ten pounds.” SEND IN CURRENT, BRUTALLY EXACT MEASUREMENTS, not the measurements of the future! I cannot stress this enough!

At this point you have chosen your design, you’ve been measured, and you’ve agreed upon a payment method. Your photo and measurements are now in the hands of the seamstress. Can you just sit back and wait for your beautiful Shirley Temple recreation to arrive in the mail? No! You should remain in contact with her throughout the whole process. If you did not provide your own material, ask for photos of the types of trim that will be used (in this case, three different widths of white eyelet lace). The local fabric store might not have something that is identical to the original, so make sure you like what your seamstress has selected.

work in progress

Ask to see photos of the work in progress. If you are happy with your dress during the sewing stage, it’s likely that you will be happy with the end result. It may be possible to change a few details while the garment is under construction, but those same details may be near-impossible to change when the whole thing is said and done. If your seamstress is not as communicative as you would like, realize that her workload may be particularly heavy and try to be understanding.

On the happy day when you finally receive your dress, inspect it for obvious flaws. Try it on and make sure that it fits perfectly. If there is a problem, you should already be aware of the post-completion policies of your seamstress. If you are unsatisfied with the finished product, do your absolute best to work it out with her directly. If you are overjoyed with your purchase, don’t forget to send her a gushing email and a photo of yourself modeling her excellent work!

About Curiosity: Curiosity Valentine is a contributing Lolita fashion writer with extensive knowledge of Lolita fashion. She’s spent time in Japan studying the subject matter and learning the language. She’s also the lead singer in the Gothic Lolita Industrial Jazz band, Curiosity. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below!

Pink Dress photo © Copyright In the Starlight.

Baby, The Stars Shine Bright and Metamorphose Temps de Fille are two brands with online shopping sites which offer international shipping and accept PayPal. Closet Child deals in used Lolita clothing, and is a bit cheaper than purchasing new items, but is still pricey. Their website also accepts PayPal and ships internationally. (Unlike the other two sites, Closet Child does not feature a shopping cart option. Customers email a list of their desired items and receive a PayPal invoice afterwards.) For other brands which do not ship outside of Japan, there are many overseas shopping services available. eBay and other auction sites offer Lolita clothing on occasion, yet these items are usually created by independent seamstresses and are not Japanese brands.

Why is Lolita brand clothing so expensive? There are a number of reasons. For starters, Lolita companies are not major manufacturers. These brands produce a small quantity of specialty items, usually in a single size, and once their inventory is depleted they have a tendency to invent new designs instead of resurrecting old ones.

Apart from accessories, most of the clothing is produced in-house by Japanese clothiers instead of being outsourced to third world countries. They are composed of first-rate materials (although there are exceptions, of course). The Moi Meme Moitie line has a renowned reputation for its exceptional fabric and lace, and is perhaps the most costly of brands.

Lower priced Lolita clothing, typically produced outside of Japan, has a tendency towards cheap, thin fabric and rough lace. It’s the old maxim – You Get What You Pay For. Would you rather spend $100 now on a poorly made dress which will only last you a couple of months, or save your money and spend $300 on a gorgeous dress which will be beautiful for years to come?

$100 dresses from places like Bodyline (and Hot Topic, although not Japanese) are mainly purchased by those who are uncertain about whether they will enjoy dressing in Lolita clothing. Granted, $300 (excluding accessories, shoes and the like) is a large commitment. But one would not purchase a budget dress in order to decide if they would like wearing a Vera Wang gown. Actually, wearing an ill-fitting, scratchy dress may sour a person on the idea of Lolita altogether.

Lolita brand clothing is most often created in a single size (although Metamorphose has started to sporadically offer “tall size” in some blouses and jackets). The majority of Japanese girls have a similar body type, which lessens the need for brands to produce S, M and L sizes in anything but shoes. If your figure matches precisely to this standard, you will not have a problem, but this is rarely the case. Most Lolitas tend to have fitting issues involving shoulders, arm circumference, bust, waist, and height. Check diligently with the measurements on the websites before purchasing.

If you receive your item and fitting issues arise, you have two choices: constrain yourself with support garments, or take your clothing in to be altered. If your brand dress cuts off circulation at the waist yet fits perfectly otherwise, you should consider having it let out by a reputable tailor. If your dress requires three friends to shoehorn you into it, you should consider sending it back for a refund, or selling it and purchasing a new one. Ill-fitting Lolita has the same horrid look as any other ill-fitting clothing and should not bulge, pucker, slack or constrict.

If there is no possible way that you could fit into a Japanese brand dress, you can opt to have your clothing commissioned, which I will cover in a later installment.

About Curiosity: Curiosity Valentine is a contributing Lolita fashion writer with extensive knowledge of Lolita fashion. She’s spent time in Japan studying the subject matter and learning the language. She’s also the lead singer in the Gothic Lolita Industrial Jazz band, Curiosity. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below!