Join us for a weekend of Lolita fashion and music! The Gothic Lolita duo, Kokusyoku Sumire, will be making their debut here in the United States at this event. If you feel like you don’t have the proper outfit for this historic first? Don’t worry! You can buy your outfit right there! Cosplay Oneesan will bring the Angelic Pretty Magical Boutique (an Angelic Pretty shop created especially for the event)!

Please check www.cosplayoneesan.com for news and updates including ticketing information.

*Please note, this is a standalone event. We are not affiliated with any other conventions or concerts in the area.

Unfortunately, the terms and different types never imported well from Japan, and if I only told you about my own style, I don’t think I would be representing the whole fashion fairly, so I have been doing a great deal of research on it recently. Please keep checking back and asking questions in the future and I will keep you updated as I learn more.

Background

When Gothic Lolita first became popular overseas (approx. 2002 or earlier), we knew it as EGL, an abbreviation that stands for Elegant Gothic Lolita. We also knew that EGA (Elegant Gothic Aristocrat) was its masculine or mature counterpart.

MANA© Gothic and Lolita Bible, Vol. 25

We later learned that the style we loved was not called EGL, but Gothic Lolita. E.G.L and E.G.A are actually two categories for the clothing brand Moi-même-Moitié©, created by Mana, the apparent King of Gothic Lolita.

Yet, even though we ditched the terms, deeming them incorrect, we still thought in the same binary: Lolita vs. Adult. We simply dropped the “EG” and began to call our Lolita counterpart “Aristocrat”. And to this day, the mature, elegant fashions of Gothic and Lolita subculture still retain this label in Western communities.

Japanese adherents don’t think in this same binary. Whereas we think in terms of Lolita vs. Adult/Aristocrat, they think in terms of Lolita vs. Gothic, because the subculture is called Gothic and Lolita.

It’s necessary to understand that Lolita and Gothic are seen as opposites: while Lolita is girly and cute, Gothic is dark and brooding. Common sense dictates that anything that is not Lolita (in this subculture) is Gothic–unless it is Gothic Lolita, which is an eerie oxymoron to Japanese ears.

Which brings me to my point: Aristocrat is a Gothic style.

What’s ironic is that the style we think of as Aristocrat is called Elegant Gothic in Japanese communities. It’s like we dropped the wrong two initials from EGA! Did they get the name from the same place, or is that a coincidence? I can’t say for certain.

Fashion

There are several Japanese styles that are commonly lumped into the Western label of Aristocrat. The ones I feel confident enough to teach you about, besides Elegant Goth, are called Madam and Ouji. Due to article length, however, I will only be able to tell you about Elegant Goth today.

Please note that these are not the only Gothic styles that exist in Japan. This article only touches on the aristocratic Goth styles, which make up a fraction of the entire Japanese Goth fashion. (It is also worth noting that “Real” Goths do not associate themselves with Gothic and Lolita culture, or even Visual-kei for that matter. And they are right, in a way.)

Na+H and Atelier Boz© Gothic and Lolita Bible, Vol. 8

Some similarities between these styles are:

• Common symbols include crucifixes and Christian imagery, angel wings, butterflies, crowns, keys, Vivienne Westwood orbs, skulls, roses, card suits, and the Fleur-de-lis.
• Asymmetrical hems are popular, as is general asymmetrical balance (for example, wearing one black lace glove and one solid black glove.) So are square-shaped skirts and dresses, which is what gives skirts like those found in Atelier Boz their jagged shape.
• When making your own clothing or buying off-brand garments, use cotton and polyester blends for fabrics; unique fabrics like velvet, taffeta, and silk are virtually never used.
• Female clothing usually incorporates frills and always uses skirts instead of pants (unless she is dressing Ouji style); male clothing is usually much less ornate than female clothing, and either pants or skirts may be worn.
• Gothic makeup can be bolder and more artistic than Lolita makeup, which is meant to look natural. However, makeup is meant to match the face to the outfit, not be the center of attention, so use balance, and look at a lot of pictures for ideas. Both ladies and gentlemen wear makeup, although it is not necessary for men. Do not paint your face white unless you want everyone to think you are a cosplayer. This is especially true in Japan. (Only, my Aristocrat roommate looks pretty hot in whiteface, so I might make him do it anyway.)
• These styles are as modest as Lolita and most of the same body areas tend to be covered (legs, shoulders/bust, midriff, back). Maybe this is overstepping the boundaries, but it is probably possible to add an Ero (short for Erotic) feel, similar to that of Erololi, which uses fetishistic garments as opposed to less garments. For example, wearing underwear such as corsets or waist-cinchers, petticoats, bloomers, or crinoline as outerwear are common Ero traits. (I don’t know of an Ero style for men, sorry guys!)

Elegant Gothic Fashion

ARIKA ©Gothic and Lolita Bible, Vol. 25

In Gothic and Lolita, “Elegant” seems to be an umbrella term loosely used to describe beautiful fashions that hint at antique aristocracy. Thus, “Elegant Goth” is exactly what it sounds like it should be. It might describe only female clothing, because I have not yet found a young man whose outfit was described as “Elegant,” but I have seen young men dressing in styles that I find elegant, so until I learn otherwise, I will give them the benefit of the doubt.

The stage costumes of Arika Takarano (see photo), lead vocalist for Ali Project, could be considered an elaborate version of Elegant Gothic style.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• Wear dark, deep colors. The main color is usually black, sometimes accented by another color, such as white, deep red, or deep blue. Experiment with other combinations if you wish. You are not really trying to achieve “Gothic” in the usual sense as much as you are trying to be pretty, elegant, and Romantic–but also dark.
• The opposite of the above color scheme is to go completely white, or white with black accents. This is called “White Goth“. Sometimes people choose more of an ivory color.
• Skirts tend to be full-length, do not resemble Lolita and may or may not be poofy or require a petticoat. Atelier Boz does make long petticoats for long skirts.
• Men might wear a jabot and long pants, and maybe a corset. Pants are usually loose-fitting. I’ve seen some men wear capes.
• Some brands to consider are Atelier Boz, Na+H, Moi-même-Moitié©, and Miho Matsuda.

This concludes the first installment of A Gothic Aristocrat Primer. In the next article I will continue describing other styles such as Madam and Ouji, and include links to stores that you can purchase clothing or evoke inspiration from.

Read A Gothic Aristocrat Primer, Part Two!

Lolitas and their Gothic companions are invited to share their own photos and illustrations in this debut issue.

The mook (book-like magazine) is intended to be printed in “hybrid format,” including both translated text from four Japanese issues as well as new content for the English release. This content is said to include interviews with Mitsukazu Mihara and Nana Kitade as well as Japan Ai author Aimee Major Steinberger. Also included in the mook are English-language patterns for creating your own accessories, among other exciting topics.

Too excited to wait? Pre-order it from Tokyopop’s website or Amazon!

See also:
About Manga
ComiPress
Anime News Network
La Carmina

Baby, The Stars Shine Bright and Metamorphose Temps de Fille are two brands with online shopping sites which offer international shipping and accept PayPal. Closet Child deals in used Lolita clothing, and is a bit cheaper than purchasing new items, but is still pricey. Their website also accepts PayPal and ships internationally. (Unlike the other two sites, Closet Child does not feature a shopping cart option. Customers email a list of their desired items and receive a PayPal invoice afterwards.) For other brands which do not ship outside of Japan, there are many overseas shopping services available. eBay and other auction sites offer Lolita clothing on occasion, yet these items are usually created by independent seamstresses and are not Japanese brands.

Why is Lolita brand clothing so expensive? There are a number of reasons. For starters, Lolita companies are not major manufacturers. These brands produce a small quantity of specialty items, usually in a single size, and once their inventory is depleted they have a tendency to invent new designs instead of resurrecting old ones.

Apart from accessories, most of the clothing is produced in-house by Japanese clothiers instead of being outsourced to third world countries. They are composed of first-rate materials (although there are exceptions, of course). The Moi Meme Moitie line has a renowned reputation for its exceptional fabric and lace, and is perhaps the most costly of brands.

Lower priced Lolita clothing, typically produced outside of Japan, has a tendency towards cheap, thin fabric and rough lace. It’s the old maxim – You Get What You Pay For. Would you rather spend $100 now on a poorly made dress which will only last you a couple of months, or save your money and spend $300 on a gorgeous dress which will be beautiful for years to come?

$100 dresses from places like Bodyline (and Hot Topic, although not Japanese) are mainly purchased by those who are uncertain about whether they will enjoy dressing in Lolita clothing. Granted, $300 (excluding accessories, shoes and the like) is a large commitment. But one would not purchase a budget dress in order to decide if they would like wearing a Vera Wang gown. Actually, wearing an ill-fitting, scratchy dress may sour a person on the idea of Lolita altogether.

Lolita brand clothing is most often created in a single size (although Metamorphose has started to sporadically offer “tall size” in some blouses and jackets). The majority of Japanese girls have a similar body type, which lessens the need for brands to produce S, M and L sizes in anything but shoes. If your figure matches precisely to this standard, you will not have a problem, but this is rarely the case. Most Lolitas tend to have fitting issues involving shoulders, arm circumference, bust, waist, and height. Check diligently with the measurements on the websites before purchasing.

If you receive your item and fitting issues arise, you have two choices: constrain yourself with support garments, or take your clothing in to be altered. If your brand dress cuts off circulation at the waist yet fits perfectly otherwise, you should consider having it let out by a reputable tailor. If your dress requires three friends to shoehorn you into it, you should consider sending it back for a refund, or selling it and purchasing a new one. Ill-fitting Lolita has the same horrid look as any other ill-fitting clothing and should not bulge, pucker, slack or constrict.

If there is no possible way that you could fit into a Japanese brand dress, you can opt to have your clothing commissioned, which I will cover in a later installment.

About Curiosity: Curiosity Valentine is a contributing Lolita fashion writer with extensive knowledge of Lolita fashion. She’s spent time in Japan studying the subject matter and learning the language. She’s also the lead singer in the Gothic Lolita Industrial Jazz band, Curiosity. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below!

I arrived at the The Way of the Lolita 30 minutes beforehand and met the moderator, Kurololi Roku. She’s been an Aristocrat for four years and she loves the long dresses and elegant lines that style showcases. She first became interested in the lolita fashion four years ago after finding this unique Japanese style online. Her passion for speaking about lolitas is what spurred her to co-moderate the panel this year.

Kurololi Roku, Roku for short, likes the overall lolita fashion since it has elements of American Goth but, also, because it’s an elegant and beautiful style; something which American Goth can lack at times Her favorite sub-genres within lolita are the mature and sophisticated Aristocrat, and the male style, Ojisama.

Roku started the panel by saying, “It’s called Gothic and Lolita, not Gothic Lolita.” Then she went into the three primary styles of Gothic and Lolita, aka the Gothic and Lolita color wheel. These would be: Lolita, Gothic, and Punk and all the sub-genres within it. Just like an actual color wheel, one could mix gothic with lolita and get Gothic Lolita, mix Gothic and punk to get Punk Gothic and so on and so on (would Sweet Punk work?)

She also debunked the theory that EGL and EGA are actually loli styles; they’re not. Mana, a popular Visual Kei singer developed a loli brand and called it “Elegant Gothic Lolita” and “Elegant Gothic Aristocrat”. It’s a no-no to refer to a style by these terms. It’d be like calling an American urban street style, Nike.

Lolita fashion first started round 1979. There was a fashion brand called Pink House that created pretty clothes for housewives to wear. It’s a rumor that Pink House was the first house to manufacture this fashion. Pink House no longer makes loli-esque clothing.

Gothic and Lolita are NOT cosplay. However, there are cosplay lolitas. Meaning, that most lolitas dress up loli because they would normally dress that way. There are people, on the other hand, who dress loli as a cosplay. Make sense?

While this panel stressed that people interested in lolita should make it unique to themselves, there still seem to be many gals/guys who adhere to a set of rules. Some American lolis have a strict code for being lolita. Any deviation from these guidelines results in the equivalent of an online and/or verbal drive-by. Novala, a Japanese author accredited to helping to create lolita fashion, had this to say in the latest Gothic & Lolita Bible in a article called, “Rules of the Lolita”, about the matter :

“So you say you want to become a Lolita.
It’s okay if you just become one, but you’re asking me.
What do I do to become a Lolita?
I don’t have a set response.
Well, I’ll need a headdress, and a pannier.
Does my outfit coordination look funny?
Am I making mistakes in Lolita?
Hey, why do you want to be a Lolita anyway?
Well, it’s popular, and my friends are doing it…
But, there aren’t any requirements to becoming a Lolita.
If you just imitate it, you’ll eventually achieve the appearance.
But I want to think about it.
Who are you living for?
If you think about your situation, you’re just afraid of being lonely.
You’re shouting out for freedom, but you’re only comfortable within rules.
I admire you for not offering up your full submission.
You Vivienne Westwood girls who don’t know who the Sex Pistols are.
Even when wearing a sweater, a princess is still a princess.
My rules for Lolita are my rules alone,
and only you can come to realize your own Lolita rules.
My gods and your gods are different.
There are angels wrapped in elegant love, striking tambourines, and if you keep them inside, they’ll be there to do their job when you take out your sword and fight.
Sometimes it’s hard for me to hear them.
I have a hint for you, though.
I’m not the only one who has realized this.
The answer to your thoughts about wanting to be proper.
Embroider frills to the bottom of your heart!
Place a tiara atop your soul!
And most of all, have pride.”

Translated by Curiosity

Two other guidelines set up by Novala are:

• Skirts must go below the knee
• Bangs must hit the eyebrows

Curiosity, the lolita co-moderator, showed up in time to add her translation of the article to the conversation. She’s a full time loli, choosing to wear name brand lolita fashions 24-7. When asked how much of a budget a loli would need to be that dedicated, she said “Astronomical”. Still haven’t found an exact number for that…

The panel wrapped up and we took our leave, but not without having a quick word with Curiosity. I’m afraid I gushed a bit when I said that her panel last year was what got me interested in lolita fashion. I then invited her to write for the site. I hope she does; she’s one enlightened and enlightening lolita!

UPDATED: Watch a video excerpt of the panel:

Reader: What’s the difference between a crinoline, pettipants, and a petticoat?

Codi: Pettipants (more frequently called bloomers), are exactly what they sound like – pants. They add a nice floof under any dress, and also I like the feeling of them keeping me cool in summer and warm in winter. A crinoline and petticoat are pretty much the same thing. Layers of tulle piled on top of each other to make a sizable floof. When I think crinolines, I think more-so of a circle shape. Although it works for square-dancing skirts (which are circle-shaped), it does not work for lolita, where many skirts are actually a trapezoid shape. (Therefore, wearing a square-dancing crinoline under a brand-named dress will usually create unnecessary wrinkles and poof rather awkwardly.) I think that these two items are the most essential to any lolita wardrobe!

Reader: Why are the dresses I see so many different lengths? Some are short some are long; what’s the average or standard length for a typical lolita dress/skirt?

Codi: Purely speaking lolita here, and not gothic, some lolitas prefer longer-styled skirts, as to fit with a “Classical Lolita” theme. The average length for a lolita dress (measuring from the waist measurement to the hem) is about 20 inches. Every house is different however (some measure 22 inches, for example.) However, 19-22 inches seem to be the most average for lolita wear! In my journeys however, I’ve noticed that brands like Metamorphose temps de fille will go much shorter or longer, depending on the style of the dress.

Brands such as Innocent World and Victorian Maiden however, have touched into longer styles, which measure about 43 inches in total. Innocent World offers them usually at winter time, offering an alternative to an average-length dress. Victorian Maiden will incorporate a longer style dependent upon the actual design of the dress.

Reader: I’m up for a promotion soon at a major corporation. What can I do to impress my superiors without looking like I’m brown-nosing?

Codi: Being impressive, while always delightful in male bonding situations, is unnecessary in high society! As long as you are true to yourself and to them, brown-nosing should not be a problem. Brown-nosing is such a commoner thing anyway!

Please let Codi know if you have any questions you’d like answered loli style by e-mailing her or by leaving them in the comment section.

In Japan, there are many brands or “houses” that cater to lolita needs, just as the West has famous fashion houses for contemporary style. For every Gucci, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana, Japan offers up Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Innocent World, and Angelic Pretty. To all lolitas just starting the loli lifestyle and to all seasoned lolitas, here’s some fashion info for winter from The Anime Blog’s Lolita Fashion Editor, Codi:

Lolita Winter Fashion Line-Up

by Codi

As Winter approaches, so does the line for Autumn and Winter goods from the various brands!

This year, however…your faithful loli is completely saddened by the lack of beautiful things to adore. Many brands this year started on pre-orders of their various winter goods much earlier than usual, with the standard coats and velveteen versions of already existing dresses. (I am staring at you icily, Baby, the Stars Shine Bright.)

The problem was there was nothing to fawn over! No brand this year is offering any stand-out series or coats; they are all dreadful re-hashings of things they’ve already done. Although there are certain things we come to expect with certain brands (Poodle series with Angelic Pretty, Sailor Series with Metamorphose, for example.), the lack of creativity still stands.

That being said, it was hard to find a common connecting theme or what is hot this year. Series (where brands take a print fabric and design a one-piece, jumper-skirt, skirt, bag, and matching headpiece with the fabric), are the only real trend for Winter. This is a surprising shock as prints are mostly left for the Summer lines. Angelic Pretty wins (and not necessarily in a good way) with not only one series, but four in total. Punk fashion house Putumayo comes in second for their tried and true Alice/drug-induced-themed prints. Metamorphose temps de fille completely loses for bringing out their kimono print, normally reserved for their summer kimono and summer pieces.

Another thing that’s always in style in Winter are plaids. Each brand offers their own plaids, and this year’s offerings were more like the plaids you’d find on the $1.00 a yard rack at the fabric store than in classy boutiques. Offering such gaudy plaids as orange and blue, and pink and black, Baby the Stars Shine Bright stray from their usual fare, but in the process lose all that is cute. A real winner here is Victorian Maiden, for using standard plaids with clean lines, and not using overkill with bells and whistles to distract from the plaid.

There is not all negativity in this! Many of the coats this year, while lacking any common theme, are simply divine. Ankle-length coats are in vogue this year, replacing the cutesy knee-length overdone ones. Simplicity and clean lines seem to be a common theme from everyone to Atelier Boz to Victorian Maiden. Innocent World shines with this, as their coats are exquisite without being gaudy. From a small choice in button design to one of the only brands offering gobelin print, Innocent World brings coats back to their humble beginnings in the lolita world. It is truly a Renaissance in a Victorian World.

Lolita is just a broad term encompassing many categories and subcategories for this style. I was blown away by all the different types of lolis present at Anime Central 2006:

Gothic Lolita

Gothic Lolita is the most familiar variety of Lolita, made popular by Mana of the band Malice Mizer in Japan. The style incorporates mostly black clothing with white lace or vice versa. Dark colors may accompany the black and white, but only if suitably somber. Crosses and skulls are a must for accessories as is anything else morbid.

The attitude is darker than for other Lolis and not as carefree but still maintains some innocence which is essential for a Lolita. The complexion is pale and the make up should be dark with either red or black lipstick, or no make up at all.

Sweet Lolita

Sweet Lolita is the soft babyish Lolita as characterized by Momoko in the film Kamikaze Girls (written by Novala Takemoto BTW). Colors are soft pastels (pinks, baby blues, lavenders), and white with floral prints, plaids, frilly headbands, ribbons, fancy finger nails, and lace, lace, lace, lace! Stuffed animals and BJD (ball jointed dolls) are common accompaniments of the Sweet style.

Classic Lolita

Classic Lolita keeps the color palette of the Sweet but without the excessive cuteness and frills. Classic Lolita is more adult and brings to mind Alice in Wonderland with the apron and princess-waist style dresses.

Kodona

Kodona is not really a Lolita but it’s still a style that runs in the vein of the Lolita, keeping with the Victorian era. I have no idea what the word Kodona means, but it’s a masculine style of Victorian dress that compliments Lolita. Girls and guys who wear it are reminiscent of mischievous school boys like the ones in Oliver Twist.

Wa Lolita and Qi Lolita

Wa Lolita and Qi Lolita are Lolis that draw inspiration for their dresses from the traditional kimono and qipao respectively.

Aristocrat Lolita

Aristocrat Lolitas tend to wear longer, straighter skirts and cut waaay back on the frills. Blacks, burgundies, darker colors, and velvets abound. The look screams school teacher or librarian and the style is much, much, more mature than Sweet, Classic, or even Gothic. It is a modest style and is not seen as much as Sweet, Classic, or Gothic.

Casual Lolita

Casual Lolita will probably be the gateway Lolita for most Americans as anyone can do it without really looking like your “dressing” like a Loli. Casual Loli is the simplest version of Lolita, giving a person ample opportunity to play with Lolita stylings without going all out and spending a fortune. The style is like Gothic but not so stern. T-shirts, chains and combat boots are all acceptable for Casual. Just think American Goth with a petticoat and some lace and there you have it.

Ero Lolita

Ero Lolita is a very mature version of Lolita that’s kinda like Gothic but showing more skin and bringing fetishes and leather to the mix. It’s still considered Lolita even though it’s not as demure as its counterparts; older women tend to gravitate towards the Ero Lolita style. The moderator was adamant that you’re no longer considered a Lolita once you start acting indecently and immodestly even though you’re dressed for just that.

Ojisama

Ojisama is the male counterpart to the Lolita style. Ojisama is the Japanese word for prince, and just as Lolitas are lil’ princesses so are Ojisama princes. Ojisama dress as any well mannered gentleman would have dressed back in Victorian times. They are NOT like the Kodona. The Kodona are rakish scoundrel looking folk whereas Ojisama are men of society.

Gory Lolita

Gory Lolita is a style I have never heard, seen, or dreamed before, but the panel mentioned it as a form of Lolita. Gory Loli is a version of Loli where the girl or guy dresses as a usual Lolita, then pours buckets of red paint or dye on their outfits. WTF?! Really? Do these people actually have that much money lying around that they can take an uber-expensive outfit and turn it into a bloody ruin? One possible reason for this style is that these Lolis have a thing for Jack the Ripper, the macabre, and/or are probably “touched” for all I know. Whatever buddy, to each their own.

I’ve only listed those varieties of Lolita that I’m most familiar with and feel comfortable writing about. I know that there are many more sub categories out there, with more and more popping up every day as the style progressively gets more popular. I’m aware of the Punk Lolita and the Nurse Lolita (maybe a sub category to Gory) but since I don’t have enough info on those I won’t be writing about them till I do.

The standards for makeup differ in some varieties of Lolis but the look for most Lolita styles remains constant; little or no makeup, and keep the face fresh and young. Of course for Gothic and Eros I’ve seen people smear on the black eye shadow and whiten their face with Ben Nye theatre makeup and then slap on a generous amount of black, red, purple, whatever, but DARK lipstick a la Mana. I imagine with Punk and Casual you can go any way you want to with the make up as well, but for Classic and Sweet the makeup must be at a minimum.

Lolita Hair

Lolita hair always eluded me as to how to get those perfect ringlets until I asked someone at the Loli panel how they did it. They said they used wigs and hair pieces which sounds simple but expensive. A good wig will probably run you $50 then add on the pieces, and whoa, pricey, but no one ever said going Loli was cheap.

Lolita Nails

Have you seen the other accessory that’s a must with most Lolitas? What’s with having those outrageous nails? How is that Lolita? You obviously can’t do much with nails that are manicured 10 ways to Sunday without fear of chipping something that cost a quarter of someone’s paycheck; I guess that’s the point. I just have never seen a little Victorian girl with long-ass acrylic nails with plastic roses glued on the tips, sorry. Must be a modern day Victorian affectation…

Lolita Poll

Early Lolitas hand sewed and designed their clothing themselves and many still do. A poll I took at Anime Central this year revealed that:

• 33% of the Lolitas that attended completely handmade their outfits
• 33% bought theirs online or from someone else that made them for them
• 33% were a composite of the two

So where can a stateside wanna be who can’t sew get hooked up? Some sites I found are:

• Apple Sugar
• Candy Violet
• Cosmates
• In the Starlight
• Milk Pearl
• Moi-Meme-Moitie (Mana’s clothing line)
• Noir Desir
• Supert3ch

Hot Topic has even jumped on the wagon and started selling Gothic Lolita style garb so that helps to a degree, but not if you want something truly unique, individualized, Sweet or Classic.

Ladies, a word to all those out there that are broke like me yet want something you can’t find anywhere else: thrift, thrift, thrift!! Get well acquainted with all the Goodwill’s and Salvation Armies in St. Louis cause believe it or not you can totally find a super cool loli outfit for under $40 not including the shoes if you really try.

Note: All images of Lolitas were taken at Anime Central 2006 unless otherwise noted.