Madam Style

My impression of Gothic Madam is that of a grown-up Gothic Lolita; feminine and frilly with a hint of vintage, but minus the parts that make Lolita–the short skirt and petticoat, the cute collar and sleeves, and the childlikeness in general. It’s hard to find photos of people who call their style Madam, so I still have more studying to do, but it is definitely a style that exists in Tokyo street life.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• A dark or gothic aesthetic is essential. It is sometimes based on black, black-and-white (but classical) or Japanese fabrics and motifs (similar to those found in Classic Lolita and Waloli) can be implemented for a personalized look.
• Keep the general fashion sense and modesty of Gothic Lolita, but go for a mature femininity rather than a cute, girly one. It’s not necessarily a sophisticated and adultish style; rather, dress more your own age.
• Knee-length or shin-length skirts are common, but only skirts that do not require a petticoat (they are obviously Lolita if they do). They are usually, but not always, asymmetrical. Mermaid skirts (skirts that are form-fitted across the thighs but flare out at the bottom) are also in style.

Ouji style

Ouji (sometimes called Goth-Ouji, Ouji-kei, or Oujisama esp. by Westerners) is not a foreign term to our ears. Ouji means “Prince”, and is usually Prince-like, but mostly, it just means that this is a man’s style. We sometimes call this Dandy, but modern Dandy fashion is an entirely different world made up of adult and middle-aged men with a specific fashion aesthetic. I suppose if you are a gentleman who identifies well with Dandyism, you could add some Gothic influence to it to become a bonafide Gothic Dandy!

Sometimes this man-style is referred to as “Unisex” because women like to wear Ouji as well. Some women Ouji like to adopt a bishounen look. It makes sense for a woman to want to look like a man who looks like a woman, right? (Sarcasm not intended…)

Ouji is NOT, however, the ONLY men’s style in Gothic and Lolita. I’m just telling you about it because it is often associated with Aristocrat in the Western Goth-loli community. It is actually not always as elegant as our interpretation of Aristocrat would have us believe–Punk-styled Ouji is quite common.

Please Note: There is another style called Ouji-loli, and this should not be confused with Ouji-style. Westerners know Ouji-loli as “Kodona”, and it is cute and boyish–childlike, not Aristocratic. Ouji-loli is for girls. Please do not mix these up.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• The difference between Elegant style and Ouji style is a little blurry to me, but my guesses are: 1. Ouji is less pretty/androgynous/vampiric and more manly/princely, and allows punk influence, 2. Elegant is a ladies’ style (as I speculated in the first article).
• Ouji has a lot of leeway, and depending on the style you want to achieve, you can choose from elegant shirts with ruffles to gauze shirts with ripped hems and exaggerated collars. You usually want a button-up shirt, but that may not necessarily always be the case. (For example, Atelier Boz is currently selling some strange turtlenecks.) A normal dress shirt is ok, but it doesn’t really have the same feel as a gothic- or punk-influenced one…unless you alter it!
• Knickerbockers are a popular choice, and are a staple of Ouji fashion much the way puffy, knee-length skirts are of Lolita. They end well below the knee, and the bottoms are usually fitted to the legs, although some men like to wear loose-fitting ones instead. They are meant to be worn with long sock or stockings underneath.
• Long coats (such as the frock coat) and vests are common but not necessary.
• Cravats are also common but not necessary.
• An Ouji can wear a full-size hat or a mini-hat, but mini-hats are usually only seen in punkish styles. And speaking of accessories, canes or walking sticks with Gothic handles (ex., a skull on top) make a powerful accent to your ensemble.

Conclusion

If you would like to become an Aristocrat, Elegant Goth, Madam, or Ouji, I hope my tips help you find a starting ground, but my final advice to you is this: let no one tell you what you should and shouldn’t wear, because there will always be someone to challenge the rules and create exceptions. Find a Gothic & Lolita Bible or a Gothic and Lolita website–better if you find several–and look at the photos. Pick out the things you like and buy or imitate them. Do not be lazy, bashful, or uncertain! Put all of your effort into achieving your desired style! In time you will get the hang of it, understand what is and is not appropriate, and you will probably discover your own unique fashion quirks to boot.

——————-
Kuroloki Roku will be a graduate of Columbia College Chicago in May 2008. She and her Prince reside in a hidden fortress in Chicagoland, and together they enjoy sipping tea, dressing up for outings, and playing DDR. Readers can find Roku’s Goth-loli blog at kuroloki.wordpress.com. Roku would like to have a career as an illustrator and graphic novelist.

Unfortunately, the terms and different types never imported well from Japan, and if I only told you about my own style, I don’t think I would be representing the whole fashion fairly, so I have been doing a great deal of research on it recently. Please keep checking back and asking questions in the future and I will keep you updated as I learn more.

Background

When Gothic Lolita first became popular overseas (approx. 2002 or earlier), we knew it as EGL, an abbreviation that stands for Elegant Gothic Lolita. We also knew that EGA (Elegant Gothic Aristocrat) was its masculine or mature counterpart.

MANA© Gothic and Lolita Bible, Vol. 25

We later learned that the style we loved was not called EGL, but Gothic Lolita. E.G.L and E.G.A are actually two categories for the clothing brand Moi-même-Moitié©, created by Mana, the apparent King of Gothic Lolita.

Yet, even though we ditched the terms, deeming them incorrect, we still thought in the same binary: Lolita vs. Adult. We simply dropped the “EG” and began to call our Lolita counterpart “Aristocrat”. And to this day, the mature, elegant fashions of Gothic and Lolita subculture still retain this label in Western communities.

Japanese adherents don’t think in this same binary. Whereas we think in terms of Lolita vs. Adult/Aristocrat, they think in terms of Lolita vs. Gothic, because the subculture is called Gothic and Lolita.

It’s necessary to understand that Lolita and Gothic are seen as opposites: while Lolita is girly and cute, Gothic is dark and brooding. Common sense dictates that anything that is not Lolita (in this subculture) is Gothic–unless it is Gothic Lolita, which is an eerie oxymoron to Japanese ears.

Which brings me to my point: Aristocrat is a Gothic style.

What’s ironic is that the style we think of as Aristocrat is called Elegant Gothic in Japanese communities. It’s like we dropped the wrong two initials from EGA! Did they get the name from the same place, or is that a coincidence? I can’t say for certain.

Fashion

There are several Japanese styles that are commonly lumped into the Western label of Aristocrat. The ones I feel confident enough to teach you about, besides Elegant Goth, are called Madam and Ouji. Due to article length, however, I will only be able to tell you about Elegant Goth today.

Please note that these are not the only Gothic styles that exist in Japan. This article only touches on the aristocratic Goth styles, which make up a fraction of the entire Japanese Goth fashion. (It is also worth noting that “Real” Goths do not associate themselves with Gothic and Lolita culture, or even Visual-kei for that matter. And they are right, in a way.)

Na+H and Atelier Boz© Gothic and Lolita Bible, Vol. 8

Some similarities between these styles are:

• Common symbols include crucifixes and Christian imagery, angel wings, butterflies, crowns, keys, Vivienne Westwood orbs, skulls, roses, card suits, and the Fleur-de-lis.
• Asymmetrical hems are popular, as is general asymmetrical balance (for example, wearing one black lace glove and one solid black glove.) So are square-shaped skirts and dresses, which is what gives skirts like those found in Atelier Boz their jagged shape.
• When making your own clothing or buying off-brand garments, use cotton and polyester blends for fabrics; unique fabrics like velvet, taffeta, and silk are virtually never used.
• Female clothing usually incorporates frills and always uses skirts instead of pants (unless she is dressing Ouji style); male clothing is usually much less ornate than female clothing, and either pants or skirts may be worn.
• Gothic makeup can be bolder and more artistic than Lolita makeup, which is meant to look natural. However, makeup is meant to match the face to the outfit, not be the center of attention, so use balance, and look at a lot of pictures for ideas. Both ladies and gentlemen wear makeup, although it is not necessary for men. Do not paint your face white unless you want everyone to think you are a cosplayer. This is especially true in Japan. (Only, my Aristocrat roommate looks pretty hot in whiteface, so I might make him do it anyway.)
• These styles are as modest as Lolita and most of the same body areas tend to be covered (legs, shoulders/bust, midriff, back). Maybe this is overstepping the boundaries, but it is probably possible to add an Ero (short for Erotic) feel, similar to that of Erololi, which uses fetishistic garments as opposed to less garments. For example, wearing underwear such as corsets or waist-cinchers, petticoats, bloomers, or crinoline as outerwear are common Ero traits. (I don’t know of an Ero style for men, sorry guys!)

Elegant Gothic Fashion

ARIKA ©Gothic and Lolita Bible, Vol. 25

In Gothic and Lolita, “Elegant” seems to be an umbrella term loosely used to describe beautiful fashions that hint at antique aristocracy. Thus, “Elegant Goth” is exactly what it sounds like it should be. It might describe only female clothing, because I have not yet found a young man whose outfit was described as “Elegant,” but I have seen young men dressing in styles that I find elegant, so until I learn otherwise, I will give them the benefit of the doubt.

The stage costumes of Arika Takarano (see photo), lead vocalist for Ali Project, could be considered an elaborate version of Elegant Gothic style.

Tips for dressing in this style:

• Wear dark, deep colors. The main color is usually black, sometimes accented by another color, such as white, deep red, or deep blue. Experiment with other combinations if you wish. You are not really trying to achieve “Gothic” in the usual sense as much as you are trying to be pretty, elegant, and Romantic–but also dark.
• The opposite of the above color scheme is to go completely white, or white with black accents. This is called “White Goth“. Sometimes people choose more of an ivory color.
• Skirts tend to be full-length, do not resemble Lolita and may or may not be poofy or require a petticoat. Atelier Boz does make long petticoats for long skirts.
• Men might wear a jabot and long pants, and maybe a corset. Pants are usually loose-fitting. I’ve seen some men wear capes.
• Some brands to consider are Atelier Boz, Na+H, Moi-même-Moitié©, and Miho Matsuda.

This concludes the first installment of A Gothic Aristocrat Primer. In the next article I will continue describing other styles such as Madam and Ouji, and include links to stores that you can purchase clothing or evoke inspiration from.

Read A Gothic Aristocrat Primer, Part Two!

The traditional clothing of Japan are also quite artistic, if in a more subtle and refined way. Most clothing worn at the time were utilitarian and served a purpose: keep a person dry and warm or to better enable the drawing of a sword. Some was ornamental, like the many layered kimono favored by women of rank.

How much do you think you know about Japanese fashion and attire, past and present? A lot? A little? Do you consider yourself a Japanese clothing historian, or are you up to date on the latest in Shinjuku? Find out in Past to Present: A Quiz for Fans of Japanese Fashion!

(Answers and actual fashion facts given are below the quiz. The quiz is off site but come back to rate your score and see how you did!!! No peeking until you’re done!)

Rate your score!

• 100-90%= Sugoi!! You’re a regular Japanese fashionista!!!
• 89-80%= Yatta! Way to know your Gothic from your Lolita!
• 79-60%= Genki. You’re learning Japanese fashion one geta at a time!
• 59-40%= Ma-ma. Meh, you can do better.
• Below 40%= Baka! You need to spend some serious time in Harajuku!!

1. False. Geta are wooden clogs much favored for wearing during the rainy and snowy season since they keep feet dry by virtue of being elevated on two wooden blocks.

2. True. Obi is translated literally as kimono sash. These sashes can be simple and utilitarian or beautiful and artistic. They serve as both closure and decoration.

3. False. These are all hairstyles worn by women in different stages of their geisha training. Wareshinobu, Ofuku, Katsuyama and Yakko-Shimada are worn by maiko (geisha in training.)

4. False. Tabi are the split socks used when wearing geta or zori. Anyone can wear them, no matter their rank.

5. True. Yukata are light weight summer kimono. Cotton is an ideal choice for yukata since the fabric “breathes” well.

6. False. This elaborate kimono from the Heian Period is actually made of twelve (ju ni) layers, not fourteen.

7. True. Kanzashi are seasonal, decorative hair ornaments worn by women to compliment their elaborate dos. It’d be a no-no to wear momiji (maple leaves) in spring.

8. False. Happi are traditionally short coats worn by shop keepers. Nowadays, sushi chefs, taiko drummers, and festival goers also sport happi.

9. True. And like their American counterpart, zori hurt like the dickens.

10. True. Shibori is the Japanese term encompassing, but not limited to, tie-dyeing.

11. False. The line of the kimono should be on the right hand side. Only the dead wear the kimono aligned to the left.

12. True. Hakama were originally worn only by samurai, but the practice spread to other classes as well.

13. False. Yukata are summer kimono, and are worn by both men and women. Kimono are also worn by both sexes.

14. False. Yo- refers to the West and -fuku translates as clothing. Yofuku: Western clothing.

15. False. Street fashion is genre of fashion which is anything but “mainstream”. Wearers of street fashion really stand out in a crowd, not blend into it.

16. True. The wa- refers to traditional Japan. The fashion was made popular by Japanese fashion designer, Takuya Sawada.

17. False. This is one school uniform worn only by girl’s. Sera, is “sailor” and fuku is clothing or uniform; in this case, uniform. It’s popular in anime for schoolgirl’s to be wearing sailor suits.

18. True. But Aristocrats don’t have much in common with their colorful, puffy counterparts. Aristocrats like to dress in a dignified manner reminiscent of Victorian schoolmarms.

19. True. These “gals” prefer to spend cash and show off how they spent it. High heels, dark tans and blonde hair are indicative to the style. There are also various sub-styles to the Kogals, but Kogal was the first on the scene.

20. False. This fashion craze has been going strong for some time now. Schoolgirls like to accessorize their rather blah uniforms with these baggy leg warmer-like creations. The style shows no sign of letting up any time soon, either.

21. False Actually, Yamanba, characterized by wild hair, super-dark fake tans, and aboriginal-style makeup, is a sub-style of Kogal.

22. False. Yet again we have another sub style of Kogal. Ganguro (black face) sport blonde hair, white eyeliner and lipstick, long nails, short miniskirts, and high heels.

23. True. But only on the weekends. However, many street style-wearing young people flock to Harajuka to hang out and be seen, not just goth lolis.

24. True. Long, highly decorative nails are a favorite among young women.

25. False. Those dark colors won’t go anywhere near a sweet loli. Pinks, lilacs, creams and baby blues are the only colors fitting for a confection such as a sweet lolita.

26. False. Gotcha! Mana is the person responsible for creating the EGL/ EGA brand of clothing, however, Mana is a man, not a woman.

27. True. And how! Decora fans look like over qualified applicants for the Rainbow Brite show. They practically glow with all the blinding colors they adorn themselves with.

28. True. Goodbye black hair, hello auburn!

29. True. Ojisama means prince, and the men who follow this style do look like European princes in their tails and ruffles.

30. False. Think of Japanese street styles as young people’s way to express themselves within a highly conforming and homogenized society. It’s their way of making a statement via fashion.

What you seek is a commission. Your first step is to select the particular item you would like to have personally crafted for you. In order to better explain the process, let’s imagine that you’ve fallen in love with this black velvet Shirley Temple one piece. But alas, even if you obtained the original, it’s been designed for pre-teen girls! Only an eight-year-old could ever fit into such a thing! You must have it re-created in your size.

pictures

Begin by gathering up as many photos of this item as you can. Luckily for us, we have both a front and back photo. But what if we could find no back photo? The rest of the garment would be a mystery. Therefore it is up to you, the consumer, to fill in any gaps in information. Shall we leave it plain? How about a large bow? Maybe even a few ruffles? The choice is yours. (Of course you can make these suggestions even if you have the photo, it is your commission.)

finding a seamstress

Step two involves finding a reputable seamstress, preferably someone who has extensive experience with Lolita fashion. Don’t worry if it takes a little time to decide on who you feel will be perfect for your project. Ask around; other Lolitas are usually eager to share their commission experiences, both good and bad.

Post your Shirley Temple photos. Once you contact (or are contacted by) a potential sewing expert, inquire as to the cost of labor, materials and the like. Request credentials, references, and photos of previous commissions. Ask what her current queue looks like, and when you can expect your piece to be finished.

Questions to ask

Inquire as to any return or refund policies.Your seamstress is most likely not making a living sewing Lolita clothing, so she may have you enter into a contract that states you will pay for the dress regardless of the final result. Ask if, after your dress is complete, might you be able to ship it back to have a fitting issue resolved? Would you have to pay extra for this service, or is it included in the overall cost? These are matters that must be settled before the commission begins, to avoid misunderstandings later.

material

When it comes to materials, you can select them yourself and ship them (if you live in the same area as your commissioner, you may be able to go shopping together). Or, you can describe a price range (the most expensive, luxurious velvet? Something durable that will not show wear over time?), and trust the seamstress to buy the fabric and lace for you. In order to know how much material will be used, you will have to be measured.

measurements

A word about measurements: accurate measurements make accurate commissions. I suggest that you visit your nearest dry cleaners, and have yourself professionally measured. This clears up any misconceptions as to where to place the measuring tape, and also reduces the desire to cheat. Do not tell yourself “I should order it a bit small, because I’m planning on losing ten pounds.” SEND IN CURRENT, BRUTALLY EXACT MEASUREMENTS, not the measurements of the future! I cannot stress this enough!

At this point you have chosen your design, you’ve been measured, and you’ve agreed upon a payment method. Your photo and measurements are now in the hands of the seamstress. Can you just sit back and wait for your beautiful Shirley Temple recreation to arrive in the mail? No! You should remain in contact with her throughout the whole process. If you did not provide your own material, ask for photos of the types of trim that will be used (in this case, three different widths of white eyelet lace). The local fabric store might not have something that is identical to the original, so make sure you like what your seamstress has selected.

work in progress

Ask to see photos of the work in progress. If you are happy with your dress during the sewing stage, it’s likely that you will be happy with the end result. It may be possible to change a few details while the garment is under construction, but those same details may be near-impossible to change when the whole thing is said and done. If your seamstress is not as communicative as you would like, realize that her workload may be particularly heavy and try to be understanding.

On the happy day when you finally receive your dress, inspect it for obvious flaws. Try it on and make sure that it fits perfectly. If there is a problem, you should already be aware of the post-completion policies of your seamstress. If you are unsatisfied with the finished product, do your absolute best to work it out with her directly. If you are overjoyed with your purchase, don’t forget to send her a gushing email and a photo of yourself modeling her excellent work!

About Curiosity: Curiosity Valentine is a contributing Lolita fashion writer with extensive knowledge of Lolita fashion. She’s spent time in Japan studying the subject matter and learning the language. She’s also the lead singer in the Gothic Lolita Industrial Jazz band, Curiosity. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below!

Pink Dress photo © Copyright In the Starlight.